The Best Affordable Watch Alternatives to the Rolex Submariner

First introduced in 1953, the Rolex Submariner unequivocally stands as the most iconic and recognizable watch on the planet — as well as one of the most widely sought after. Also representing the first dive watch to be waterproof down to 100 meters, the original Submariner has slowly evolved over the last roughly 70 years, however, it still maintains its instantly-recognizable appearance, along with a world-class level of fit and finish that’s become synonymous with the Crown’s timepieces. The fact that the watch’s demand hugely outweighs Rolex’s supply can make getting your hands on a genuine Submariner an immensely difficult feat — and that’s if you can even afford the Sub’s more than $9,000 starting price. And while we’ll be the first to admit that there really is no substitute for an actual Submariner, there are a handful of references that are visually quite similar to the Coronet company’s classic dive watch — our favorite of which we’ll be counting down today in this guide to the best affordable alternatives to the Rolex Submariner. 

Today, the Rolex Submariner is a bonafide horological icon, as well as quite possibly the most widely emulated watch design in history — both for good reason. One of the very first dive watches ever to hit the market, the original Submariner would soon come to largely define the seafaring watch segment as well as arguably the wider sport watch space as a whole. Though all commonplace today, stainless steel dive cases, matching steel bracelets, luminous handsets, and rotating timing bezels can all largely be traced back to the Submariner.

 A luxury status symbol through and through, the Sub has also been worn by an enormous variety of athletes, entertainers, and other high-profile celebrities and individuals, and has been featured extensively on the silver screen — factors that would further cement the Submariner’s already legendary status. Between being one of the world’s most instantly recognizable grail products and status symbols and boasting what’s widely considered to be one of the greatest industrial designs in history, it’s frankly unsurprising that the Submariner has directly inspired so many other modern dive watches. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner

The Original Icon: While there are admittedly some fantastic Sub-like alternatives on the market, nothing even comes close to comparing to the real thing, which is why, if you can afford it, we’d always recommend going with the actual grail product.

Purchase From Rolex: $9,100+

In order to shop for something with a similar appearance, it’s first crucial to grasp what visual elements come together to comprise the horological icon that is the Rolex Submariner. Below, we’ll briefly touch on each one of these areas. 

Case: Starting with the piece that the rest of the watch is constructed around, we have the Submariner’s case. This Maxi-style item consists of a rectangular housing that tapers towards its lugs and houses a large circular bezel and dial and a pronounced crown. 

Bracelet: Perfectly matching the case, the Submariner features a remarkably comfortable steel bracelet that features a staggered three-link configuration and is secured via one of Rolex’s Oysterlock clasps. 

Dive Bezel: Another indisputable hallmark trait of the Submariner is its iconic-looking dive bezel. This rotating item features an arrow-style marker at 12 o’clock that’s fitted with a lumed dot insert. 

Dial & Indices: Alongside featuring the word “Rolex” and the company’s coronet logo, some of the Sub’s dial’s other hallmark design cues are its use of baton-style indices at 6 and 9 o’clock (and a 3 o’clock on non-date references), an arrow-style marker at 12, and circular dot markers at every other hour, all of which have been generously coated in luminous paint — and have been widely emulated by other watchmakers

Hands: The Submariner’s handset is another iconic part of its overall design, and features an ultra-skinny seconds hand with a circular section two thirds of the way up, along with a sword-style minute hand and the distinctive “Mercedes” hour hand. 

TIMEX M79 AUTOMATIC

Starting with our most affordable pick we have the Timex M79 Automatic. Costing less than one-thirtieth the starting price of the Submariner, the M79 Auto can easily pass for Rolex’s iconic dive watch upon first glance, with near-identical indices and hour markers on the dial, an incredibly similar rotating bezel with the same numbers markers and lumed dot inlay, and a handset that even imitates the Sub’s Mercedes hour hand with an encircled T design in place of the three-pointed star. The Timex watch is made all the more Sub-like by the fact that, like the original 1953 Sub reference, the M79 Automatic is available in a black-dial version with a matching black dive bezel, as well as in Coke (black and red) and Batman (black and blue) bezel variants. Powered by a 21-jewel automatic movement, the watch also features a date window and 50 meters of water resistance. 

Lorier Neptune

Made by a renowned micro watch brand, the unmistakably vintage-themed Lorier Neptune draws inspiration from early Submariner models, with a black dial with a broad arrow handset, a domed crystal, an unprotected over-sized crown, thin 120-click aluminum coin edge bezel, a brushed flat link bracelet, and a marine-grade stainless steel case (and bracelet) construction — in this case 316L. Now on its fourth generation, this retro-inspired dive watch also sports some light Omega Seamaster 300 vibes that we thoroughly appreciate. And, at just under $500, the Neptune also offers some pretty incredible value, as the thing boasts a Miyota 90S5 automatic movement, Superluminova BGW9 lume, and a steel bracelet with screw pin-secured, fully-articulating solid links and a push-button clasp with a trio of micro-adjustment slots. While discussing Lorier and affordable Rolex alternatives, we should also mention that the New York micro brand also happens to make a fantastic vintage Pepsi-bezeled Rolex GMT-inspired model known as the Hyperion.

UNIMATIC U1 CLASSIC

Even the modern Submariner is largely based on a more than half-century-old design — a fact that makes this next Sub alternative so unique, as it puts a sleek and thoroughly contemporary spin on the Rolex diver. Christened the Unimatic U1 Classic — or “UC1” — this Italian made dive watch sports a remarkably similar dial layout to the Submariner, however, the Sub’s baton at 6 o’clock is now oriented horizontally. Sitting under a double domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the matte black dial also comes outfitted with pale green-glowing Super-LumiNova C3 lume, and a matching phantom ladder handsset with a silver-tipped black reverse lollipop seconds hand. Paired with a heavy-duty Unimatic nylon nato strap with custom hardware, the U1 Classic’s 41.5mm solid brushed 316 stainless steel case features a low-profile crown that sits flush with its guards and a black aluminum 120-click mono-directional dive bezel with a lumed dot insert. Modern yet minimalistic, the UC1 is kept ticking via an NH35A automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve and a hacking seconds hand. Individually numbered, the UC1 is also sold in an included Pelican-style crushproof case. 

TISSOT SEASTAR 2000 PROFESSIONAL POWERMATIC 80

In a bid to mimic its design, aesthetic, and overall feel, most Submariner inspired timepieces follow Rolex’s lead and employ a case size of around 40mm or 41mm — which is where the latest generation Subs have hovered around at. The Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80, however, does no such thing, with this bold reference measuring in at a whopping 46mm, making it the biggest watch on this list — and by a pretty decent margin, too. A revamped iteration of the Swiss heritage brand’s older Seastar model, this Tissot does cost over a grand, however, it offers absolutely stellar bang for your buck, punching well above its weight in terms of both features and fit and finish. In addition to the plus-sized case – which actually wears surprisingly well on the wrist — the Seastar 2000 Pro Powermatic 80 boasts a helium escape valve, a ceramic bezel, an ISO 6425 dive watch certification, a very generous 600 meters of water resistance, and a chronometer-certified 23-jewel automatic movement with a patented Nivachron balance spring and a very healthy 80-hour power reserve.

CHRISTOPHER WARD C60 TRIDENT PRO 600

While the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600 admittedly more closely resembles Rolex’s Seamaster than it does the Submariner, the CW watch is nonetheless definitely worth considering if shopping for a solid Sub alternative, as it carries much of the same presence as Rolex’s iconic luxury diver and boasts a laundry lists of impressive features to boot. This includes a luxury-level fit and finish, 600 meters of water resistance, a fully-lumed and polished ceramic bezel, a meticulously crafted “light-catcher” case (that’s available in 38mm, 40mm, and 42mm sizes), a quick-adjust stainless steel bracelet, and a Swiss-made automatic movement. Bestowed with some of the brightest lume on the market, the watch’s dial consists of a glossy lacquered item decorated via multifaceted diamond-polished indices and a dual-finished handset — all sitting under an AR-coated sapphire crystal. Reengineered and benefiting from ample customer feedback, the C60 Trident Pro 600 is also widely considered by many in the horological community to be the very best dive watch currently available for under $1,000. 

SEIKO PROSPEX SPB143

The Seiko Prospex SPB143 is a unique alternative to the Submariner, as, though it may appear to be loosely modeled after the Sub, the SPB143 is, in fact, a modernized reissue of the Japanese watch brand’s 62MAS model from 1965, which not only marked Seiko’s first dive watch, but also the first-ever Japanese dive watch to hit the market. One of numerous contemporary iterations of iconic dive watch’s from the company’s history alongside its Turtle and Tuna-cased counterparts, the Seiko Prospex SPB143 is constructed around a 40.5mm stainless steel case with a super-hard coating that sports a similar profile to that of the Submariner, though also boasts a vastly-different dial setup with LumiBrite-adorned hands and beefy baton-style indices at every hour against a black background. The dial is also encompassed by a unidirectional rotating black dive bezel. At the heart of the watch is a Seiko Caliber 6R35 automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve, as well.

MIDO OCEAN STAR 600 CHRONOMETER

Made by a Swiss brand that’s been in operation for over a century, the Mido Ocean Star 600 Chronometer is another standout Submariner alt pick, as it obviously takes some loose inspiration from the wildly iconic Rolex dive watch while, at the same time, also managing to bring much of its own novel design language and traits to the table. On top of its case’s silhouette, another commonality the Ocean Star 600 Chronometer shares with the Submariner is the Mido’s objectively impressive spec sheet and feature list, which includes but is not limited to top-shelf Super-Luminova Grade X lume, 600 meters of water resistance, a rotating bezel with a ceramic insert, a helium valve, and an ETA C07.821-based Mido Caliber 80 movement — a COSC-certified chronometer automatic item equipped with 25 jewels, 80 hours of power reserve, and a silicon balance spring. All this manages to come at a price of under $2,000, too. 

MONTA OCEANKING

The MONTA Oceanking is a luxury Swiss-made diver from a renowned St. Louis-based micro brand. Very much putting its own unique spin on a high-end Submariner-style design, the Oceanking comes loaded with top-shelf touches that collectively make it an incredibly attractive offering while also demonstrating what a wildly calculated watch the Oceanking truly is. This includes a MONTA Caliber M-22 movement with a 42-hour power reserve, a ceramic bezel that benefits from the use of a patented assembly, a beautifully-crafted 316L stainless steel case, a tremendously comfortable steel bracelet with a quick-adjust clasp that has six micro adjustment slots, a lacquered dial, 300 meters of water resistance, a flat, beveled, sapphire crystal with 7 layers of underside anti-reflective coating, and a Swiss-made, rhodium plated, diamond cut, sword-style handset that’s filled with blue-glowing Super-LumiNova BGW9 lume.  

ORIS AQUIS DATE CALIBRE 400

With a black dial and bezel combo, an oversized crown, and a Submariner-esque case that’s dominated by a prominent ridged rotating bezel, it’s not hard to see why one might compare the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 to the Rolex Submariner, however, the Aquis reference actually has even more in common than one might think — especially when you consider that the Oris costs less than a quarter of what the Sub does. Not only does the Aquis Date Calibre 400 boasts a true luxury level fit and finish, but it also features other elements that are typically reserved for markedly more expensive timepieces such as a ceramic bezel, a cool 300 meters of water resistance, and an Oris 400 movement that has more than 30 anti-magnetic components, 21 jewels, and a massive five-day (120-hour) power reserve. The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 also comes backed by a generous decade-long warranty. 

TUDOR BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT

Drawing on ‘50s and ‘60s era timepieces from Tudor’s archives, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight is a vintage-inspired dive watch from a Swiss brand that’s not only Rolex’s sister company, but one that also used actual Rolex Submariner cases for its first dive watch in 1954 — reasons that should make it abundantly clear why the BB58 is such an ideal alternative to an actual Sub, and that’s before you even consider the fact that the Tudor diver comes in at half the Sub’s price. Alongside the type of fit and finish one would expect from a world class watchmaker, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight also features a gorgeous matte black dial that’s outfitted with gilt hands and sits under a generously domed sapphire crystal. Bestowed with a host of authentic mid-century styling cues, the BB58’s stainless steel case boasts an oversized unprotected crown, an ultra-thin coin-edge bezel that sports an aluminum insert and red triangle at 12 o’clock, and a rivet-style steel bracelet. The bracelet’s faux rivets are undoubtedly the watch’s most divisive design decision, though we happen to be in the camp that appreciates this element. 

The Best Affordable Rolex Alternative Watches

Want to check out an even more robust list of viable swap options for the Crown’s timepieces? Then be sure to head over to our larger guide to the best affordable Rolex alternative watches for a curated list of accessibly-priced references that wonderfully emulate the coronet company’s horological offerings.