Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022 is in the books. The year’s largest watch industry trade show and the first-ever in-person gathering for the event was a resounding success, with dozens of incredible timepieces unveiled by many of the world’s top luxury watch brands. From killer new sports watches from the likes of Rolex and Tudor to complicated grails from Patek Philippe and Grand Seiko to unexpected innovation courtesy of Cartier and TAG Heuer, there truly were a lot of wonders at this gathering of watches. But which were the best timepieces from the show? Have a look below to discover our 15 favorite watches unveiled at this year’s Watches and Wonders.
Tudor Black Bay Pro
Tudor finally did what enthusiasts have been clamoring for the brand to do since 2018 and released a 39mm GMT. Coming across as a very obvious tribute to sister company Rolex’s Explorer II ref. 1655, the Black Bay Pro isn’t the Tudor GMT people expected, but it’s the one everyone wants.
Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400
As the most budget-friendly brand presenting at W&W, Oris really had to bring its A-game, and it certainly did with the new PPX. Fitted with Oris’s outstanding Cal. 400 in-house movement and boasting great sizing, on-trend colors, and titanium construction, this watch is a winner.
Rolex Air-King
Rolex was bound to make headlines regardless of what it did at the show, and the brand certainly accomplished that with its quirky lefthanded GMT-Master II. But flying slightly under the radar (pun intended) was the reimagined Air-King, which makes for an intriguing new sports watch entry point for the brand.
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen
Montblanc made its coolest watch, the Geosphere, even cooler. Not only did the brand add a chronograph complication to the dual-hemisphere worldtimer, it also removed all oxygen from the case and movement, making the watch resistant to fogging and oxidation in extreme conditions.
Zenith Chronomaster Open
Zenith finally brought the Chronomaster Open in line with the rest of its killer modern Chronomaster line. Rather than relying on a traditional open-heart design to show off the 1/10th-second chronograph El Primero movement, the brand created an innovative translucent subregister that doesn’t remove any functionality.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition Lake Tahoe
IWC revealed a slew of new watches featuring its exclusive Pantone ceramic colorways, including two entirely new hues in the forest-green IWC Woodland and, our pick, the icy-white IWC Lake Tahoe, which the brand has employed on the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN.
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro ESteel
Panerai expanded its Submersible line of dive watches with an all-new size. The QuarantaQuattro comes in at 44mm, making for a nice middle ground between the brand’s 42mm and 47mm divers. Not only that, but the line also comes in Panerai’s sustainable recycled eSteel material.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
Parmigiani may have set a new standard for the ideal type of GMT movement with its GMT Rattrapante. The unique caliber features two pushers: one that advances the local hour hand when traveling, revealing a previously-hidden GMT hand, and another that instantly snaps it back to home time.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar
We’re used to seeing complex movements from JLC, but never presented in such an agreeable package. The Polaris Perpetual Calendar marks the first time the brand has added the grandest complication to its casual and capable Polaris line, and it may be the sportiest perpetual calendar we’ve ever seen.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222
With the popularity of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, it’s safe to say that integrated bracelet sports watches born in the ‘70s are having a moment. So the third member of watchmaking’s Holy Trinity decided to get in on the action by reissuing its mythical 222 from 1977.
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time
Speaking of Patek, the brand decided to take some risks at W&W rather than trotting out another Nautilus. This white gold stunner marks the first time Patek has combined its annual calendar and travel time complications, and it also marks the debut of the brand’s intriguing new vintage-style design language.
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
While Moser’s fully Vantablack watch prototype was one of the show’s most captivating displays, it’s not cleared for human wear. What is though is the brand’s first-ever skeleton watch, which takes a three-dimensional cylindrical tourbillon movement and makes it suitable for everyday wear with 120m water resistance and great lume.
Cartier Masse Mystérieuse
Cartier’s moneymakers will undoubtedly be its updated Tanks, which now come with black dials. But the real head-turner was the incredible Masse Mystérieuse. Showcasing a kind of high watchmaking prowess never before seen from the brand, this limited-edition piece features an automatic movement entirely encapsulated within its rotor.
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon
As the only non-European brand to present on the main floor of Geneva, Grand Seiko proved it belonged there with the most complicated mechanical watch it’s ever produced. The first watch to combine a tourbillon and constant-force mechanism on a single axis, the Kodo is a remarkable achievement and a thing of beauty.
TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma
No one expected TAG Heuer to have one of the priciest watches at the entire show, but that’s what the brand did with the innovative Carrera Plasma. Using a high-tech process that allows them to grow custom-shaped diamonds — like a diamond crown — TAG’s engineers crafted this flashy tourbillon chronograph.
Honorable Mention
Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch
No members of the Swatch Group — which includes Omega, Longines, Blancpain, and more — participated in W&W, but the conglomerate managed to steal the show anyway. Releasing the week prior to the Geneva event was Omega’s unexpected affordable Speedmaster collab with Swatch, and it remains the most-hyped watch of the year.
The 10 Best Luxury Watches for the New Collector
Anxious to get started on your own luxury watch collection after having a look at these exciting new releases? Then check out our guide to the 10 best luxury watches for the new collector.
