The Best Men’s Selvedge Denim Jeans to Wear Right Now

Selvedge denim jeans are made with a tougher, grittier-feeling fabric, and as such, the dyes used don’t tend to take as well, meaning the denim will gradually wear down to develop its own rich patina. Less a manufacturing defect than it is a unique personal stamp, fading makes for an important part of every jean wearer’s ownership. It means that your pants will come to bear the mark of every coin, key, and wallet you keep in your pockets, acting as a record of the many experiences you enjoy in your denim. Being subscribers to this kind of clothing relationship ourselves, we’ve put together a guide highlighting the best selvedge denim jeans for men.

What is selvedge denim?

For those who aren’t familiar, selvedge denim describes a type of jeans made with a finished edge along the outseam. Originally derived from the words ‘self-edge,’ it’s since come to be synonymous with fabrics of higher quality and more meticulous craftsmanship. That’s because, even though selvedge denim used to be the standard around the turn of the 20th century, over time, modernized machinery has rendered the looms that make the material all but obsolete.

What to look for

You won’t have to worry as much about finding quality options among selvedge denim jeans as you would with regular jeans. This is because the involved process that it takes means there’s a barrier to entry, making it harder to cut corners. But selvedge denim will stretch a bit over time, so you might want to go for a size smaller depending on how the company designs its jeans/accounts for this.

Sanforization: This is a process that involves pre-shrinking the fabric before it’s cut (sometimes called pre-shrunk) so that it shrinks less after the first wash, and is more stable overall.

Size: If a pair of jeans has been sanforized (or pre-shrunk), you’ll want to go down a size or two to account for this, but they should still be a little tight when you first put them on. For jeans that haven’t been sanforized, you can go a couple of sizes bigger as they’re going to shrink more.

Cut: This is more of a personal preference, but keep in mind that sanforized jeans will shrink around the waist, so make sure it’s not too loose in that area. Also, with certain cuts coming in and out of favor, make sure you’re getting a cut that’s true to your style (or just go with a straight cut if you’re not sure).

Weight: This is ultimately a trade-off between durability and comfort, as lighter jeans (~12 oz and below) are generally more comfortable, but not as durable as heavier jeans (~16 oz and above). Heavier jeans will be harder to break in as well, so if you’re just getting into the space, something in the middle is just right.

Selvedge vs. Raw Denim

Selvedge denim (or selvage, etc.) is still denim, but the name is in reference to how the denim is woven, while raw denim is denim that hasn’t been washed coming off the loom, making the two different. But keep in mind that selvedge denim jeans can be made with raw denim (and they often are).

Why are selvedge denim Jeans so expensive?

The extra time that’s required to make jeans with a finished edge means that they’re typically produced in much lower volumes, so they command significantly higher price tags (relative to comparable offerings, at least).

Uniqlo Stretch Selvedge Slim-Fit Jeans

The Budget Pick: Kicking things off, we have the affordable Japanese brand Uniqlo with what is likely the best pair of selvedge denim jeans you can get at this price. These slim-fit stretch jeans are made with denim from Kaihara, a Japanese denim manufacturer that’s been around since 1893. They’re lightweight with minimal seams, and a bitch of extra stretch to ensure that you’re always comfortable.

Everlane The Selvedge Slim Fit Jean

The Sustainable Pick: Just because you’re looking to get your hands on some selvedge denim doesn’t mean that you should have to spend $200-300 sums. Take this pair of slim-fit jeans from Everlane, for example. Made from an organic stretch selvedge denim that’s woven and dyed at Italy’s Candiani Mill, they’re comfortable, long-lasting, and super classic. The best part about these jeans, though, is that they’ll feel perfectly broken in right from the first wear.

Left Field NYC Greaser Vidalia Mills

The Best ‘50s Style Jeans: If you’re after some good ole, classic USA-made denim, you can’t go wrong with Leftfield NYC — especially when it comes to these jeans. For starters, the materials are top-notch, made at the Vidalia Mills plant (the first new selvedge mill since Cone White Oak), and manufactured using environmentally responsible production processes. But that’s not all; in this particular greaser cut, you’re getting a ’50s-inspired fit with a straight leg, a slight taper, and a medium-high rise. Top it off with some custom rivets and a set of bandana pocket bags, and you’ve got some jeans that are just oozing with Americana.

Railcar Spikes X001 Taper Leg 13.5oz American

The Best US-Made Jeans: Railcar Spikes is a brand that’s about as American as American gets, born out of a genuine need for some hard-hitting workwear and sewn using deadstock white line selvedge Cone Mills denim. As the OG in the Railcar catalog, the X001 offers a perfect representation of what to expect, including such features as a double waistband to reduce unwanted stretch, some tucked belt loops for a cleaner look, and a hand-embossed, vegetable-tanned leather logo patch that was made completely in-house. When you consider that Railcar offers a complimentary chain stitch hem with every purchase, they make for a value proposition that seems too good to be true.

Levi 1967 505 Regular Fit

The Classic: Okay, let’s face it. You can’t have a list of jeans without a pair of Levi’s, and these 505s are a case in point. Designed to look like a pair from 1967, they come with a slim fit, a Talon zipper fly, and a lower rise. And here’s the thing — the details are second to none, with beautiful Japanese selvedge, a classic leather patch, as well as a faithfully-recreated doubled-sided big ‘E’ Red Tab. Denim devotees, this is one pair that’s sure to stoke your nostalgia.

Naked & Famous MIJ7

The Most Unique Jeans: These MIJ7 jeans from Naked & Famous are perfect for denim heads who take pride in developing their own patina. For even though they start out a dark midnight black in color, over time, they’ll wear away to reveal dark, medium, and even light blues before showing the core of the yarn. And because the fabric itself is rich with slubby, irregular imperfections, you’ll get a uniquely uneven grain that’s rich with individual character. Oh, and if you really relish the worn-in look, you’ll be glad to know that the black iron buttons and copper rivets will rust over time.

Evisu Handprinted Seagull Slim Fit Raw Denim Selvedge Jeans

The Best Japanese Jeans: With workwear and Japanese clothing seeing a recent rise in popularity, we’ve been lucky to have many truly high-quality options to choose from. Evisu is one such Japanese brand known for its denim products, and they use traditional and precise methods to create premium garments. Just like this pair of slim-fit selvedge denim jeans made with raw denim and natural indigo. It has six pockets, with two on the front, and a cool godhead patch on the back. And it’s finished with the label’s signature hand-painted seagull.

Raleigh Workshop Nihon Menpu

The Premium Pick: Last up on our list is an option from Raleigh Denim Workshop, a small-time outfit in NC that’s made it big because of its unsurpassed jeans quality. This pair, in particular, is quite the special little number, as it’s one of just a few others made at the now-closed Cone Mills White Oak plant. Moreover, the attention to detail is a true cut above the rest, with hand-stamped, numbered leather patches, a hand-signed mark on the inside, and, of course, the brand’s signature red chain stitch hem.

Runner-Ups

Tellason John Graham Mellor Slim Straight Selvedge Jeans

Tellason introduced its John Graham Mellor silhouette over 12 years ago, so it’s safe to say that these jeans are about as timeless as they come. And it’s not without good reason; between their Kaihara orange line raw selvage denim, their San Francisco-based construction, and their durable, doubled-lined pockets, they make for an option that’ll last for years and have you looking good all the while. Oh, and should you need your jeans adjusted, Tellason will even hem them for free.

3Sixteen CT-120X Classic Tapered

New York-based 3Sixteen is an absolute authority in the men’s fashion space, and it’s easy to see why when you consider what their CT-120x jeans have to offer. Made exclusively for the retailer by Okayama-based Kuroki Mill, they feature a 14.5-ounce raw shadow selvedge — a denim that’ll fade from a dark black to a high-contrast blue over time. What’s more, they come with a set of custom gunmetal shanks and rivets, as well as a hardy leather patch by Tanner Goods. It’s worth noting that because of their potential for stretch, 3Sixteen recommends that buyers opt for one size down than their usual pants.

A.P.C. Petit New Standard Jeans

It’s best to think of these APC Petit New Standard jeans as something of an international effort, as they combine Japanese denim with French style for a modern take on an age-old American favorite. In practice, this means that they’re stiff in construction (14.50oz, to be exact), fitted in design, and trimmed with some vibrant orange topstitching. Though you can have them in several different washes, we’d have to go with the Raw Indigo on account of its pure, unadulterated old-school cool. As an added bonus, the interior of the fabric is finished with selvedge over the entire length.

Orslow 105 Standard Jean

From the archives of Japanese designer and orSlow front man Ichiro Nakatsu comes these 105 standard selvedge jeans. Cut using Japanese white selvedge denim, they feature a brushed neppy finish that’s made only better by the vintage-inspired waist patch. Though they’re on the slimmer side, they’re not too fitted, so you can rock them with a wide variety of shirts, tees, and even a blazer if you’re feeling daring. Make sure to pick up a pair while you can, though; they have a tendency to sell out pretty quickly.

Iron Heart 21oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jeans

For those who want a pair of jeans that embody the Iron Heart name through and through, these selvedge denim straight cuts are easily your best bet. After all, they were Shinichi Haraki’s first design for the brand, made with a thick 21oz Japanese selvedge and continuous line from hem to hem. Oh, and because they’ve been specially treated for a more traditional, slower fade, they won’t offer the same tacky high-contrast look that’s currently flooding the market.

The Best Leather Jackets for a Classic Look

Looking for more classic and durable garments? Then head on over to our best leather jackets guide.