Review: Timex’s Expedition GMT Titanium Might Be The Best $500 GMT Watch

It’s hard to imagine that a brand once famous for $1 pocket watches in the 1890s would one day be producing titanium GMT watches that have enthusiasts genuinely excited. But here we are, and Timex has been on an absolute tear this past year with releases like the Timex Expedition North GMT Titanium.

Founded in 1854 as the Waterbury Clock Company in Connecticut, Timex has weathered bankruptcy, World Wars, and the quartz crisis while maintaining their mission of building simple, functional, and affordable timepieces. For decades, that earned them household recognition but little respect in enthusiast circles, which is understandably so when your brand is synonymous with $50 department store watches.

But something shifted around 2017 with the Marlin Hand Winding, and 2024 felt like their Renaissance moment. In the past year alone, they’ve rolled out the 1975-revived Enigma, the Deepwater Reef 200 Titanium diver, the James Brand GMT collaboration with its Miyota 9075 movement, and of course, the Expedition North GMT Titanium Automatic seen here. Nearly all of these releases sold out almost instantly, which is unthinkable for Timex just years ago.

The Expedition GMT represents Timex’s most accessible entry into the increasingly competitive affordable GMT space – a market that’s exploded thanks to capable movements like the NH34 and Miyota 9075. At $549, it’s positioned to take on established players like the Seiko SSK GMT while offering something those competitors can’t match: full titanium construction at this price point. But can a brand still fighting its mass-market reputation truly compete with the established players at this more elevated price point?

Let’s dive into it.

At A Glance

Pulling the Expedition North GMT from its box, this doesn’t feel like a typical Timex. The angular tonneau case with hooded lugs immediately draws comparisons to the Tudor Black Bay Pro – and by extension, the Rolex Explorer II that inspired it. The resemblance is undeniable, from the yellow GMT hand to the overall proportions, but Timex has done just enough to avoid homage territory.

We’re living through perhaps the golden age of affordable GMT watches, with options from both established players and various microbrands flooding the sub-$1,000 market – something our recent guide to the best affordable GMTs puts on full display. The catalyst has been the availability of capable movements like the NH34 powering this Timex and the superior Miyota 9075 found in their James Brand collaboration just months prior.

Speaking of that James Brand release – priced at $749 with grade 5 titanium case and bracelet plus the more sophisticated 9075 “true GMT” movement – it set expectations high for what Timex could accomplish in the GMT space. However, this Expedition GMT takes a different approach here: more accessible pricing, likely grade 2 titanium (Timex doesn’t specify), and the workhorse NH34 movement that’s become the backbone of entry-level GMT watches.

Community reception has been interesting to watch – some dismiss it as too derivative of the Black Bay Pro, while others appreciate having access to this design language and titanium construction at a fraction of the cost of the Tudor. 

At 41mm diameter, 11.5mm thick, and 48mm lug-to-lug, the Expedition GMT hits dimensions that should work for most wrists, though the lug-to-lug measurement does push it toward the upper limit for smaller wrists. On our 6.75″ wrist, it sits comfortably without feeling oversized, and that previously mentioned angular tonneau shape with hooded lugs helps it wear more compactly than the measurements might suggest.

The titanium case construction is where this watch really shines at its price point. While Timex doesn’t specify the grade (likely grade 2 based on accessible pricing), the matte blasted finish feels both premium and purposeful. It’s the same approach they took with the Deepwater Reef 200, and it works brilliantly here – the finish helps hide daily wear scratches while giving the watch a tool-like aesthetic that matches its adventure-focused branding.

The bi-directional rotating bezel features 24-hour markings with numerals at even hours and lines at odd hours, utilizing 120 clicks of repurposed dive watch hardware that works well for GMT functionality. All-in-all, the bezel action felt pretty good, but it is noticeably loose and can be knocked out of position quite easily.

The screw-down crown is on the slightly smaller side, but it operates smoothly with good tactile feedback, featuring coin-edge detailing that echoes Tudor’s approach. And it’s finished off with Timex’s Expedition mountain logo.

Protecting the dial is flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating that manages reflections well, though the black dial can still show glare in certain conditions. Water resistance hits 200m with the screw-down crown and caseback. And, the exhibition caseback showcases the NH34 movement through sapphire crystal.

The matte black dial balances legibility with aesthetic appeal perfectly. The applied indices do appear to be solid lume blocks rather than painted markers. The mix of baton indices at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, round markers elsewhere, and triangular marker at 12 creates some nice visual interest while maintaining excellent readability.

The simple baton handset provides superb legibility in all conditions. The seconds-hand features a rectangular lume pip that match the GMT hand’s styling, creating nice visual coherence. The yellow GMT hand is perfectly sized and colored, easily distinguished from the primary timekeeping hands – and we love how the matching yellow “GMT” text above the 6 o’clock ties the design together.

While lume performance wasn’t great, it wasn’t too bad either, especially for a Timex. We’d describe it as “decent.” The applied indices glow brightly and evenly, lasting through the night. The hands are adequately lumed, though not quite as bright as the indices. The printed 60-minute track runs outside the applied indices, maintaining clean legibility without clutter.

Dial text placement includes “Timex” underneath the 12 o’clock with “Expedition North” stacked below, plus essential 200m water resistance and automatic markings above the 6 o’clock. And, the date window at 3 o’clock features a color-matched black disc that integrates naturally.

Under the hood, the Timex Expedition GMT is powered by the Seiko NH34 automatic GMT movement. As we’ve outlined in previous reviews, this is a “caller” GMT, meaning the 24-hour hand adjusts independently rather than the local hour hand. For tracking a second time zone from home, this works perfectly. For frequent travelers needing quick local time adjustment, it’s less convenient than the “flyer” GMT found in Timex’s James Brand collaboration.

The NH34 operates at 21,600vph with a 41-hour power reserve and hacking seconds. It’s the same movement powering countless affordable GMTs, from Seiko SSK series to various microbrands. Our test watch performed better than Seiko’s -20 to +40 seconds per day specification, gaining about 10 seconds daily.

Setting is straightforward: second crown position adjusts local time and date, first position moves the GMT hand in one-hour increments clockwise with counterclockwise adjusting date.The winding feel is smooth with clear crown position distinctions during time/date adjustment.

It is worth mentioning that there is a bit of audible rotor noise during wear – typical for this movement – but it’s not intrusive or a deal breaker by any means. 

The movement is visible through the exhibition caseback, which is stamped with a Timex Expedition North logo, revealing utilitarian finishing appropriate for the price point. 

The Expedition GMT comes exclusively on black silicone, signaling tool watch priorities. The strap measures 20mm without any tapering. This decision is certainly utilitarian but can also be a bit limiting aesthetically, especially when many have called for tapered options across Timex’s recent releases.

The silicone material itself is well-executed, though we didn’t find it as comfortable as the band on the Timex Deepwater Reef 200 Titanium. 

It’s soft and flexible right out of the box, with perforations for breathability and proper sizing, and a ridged underside that helps with moisture management during active wear and warmer days. A small Timex Expedition mountain logo sits beneath the lugs while the Timex word mark is located on the opposite side of the lower strap.

Quick-release spring bars make strap changes effortless, and at 20mm you have access to countless aftermarket options. The titanium pin buckle is properly signed with Timex branding and feels substantial without being overly bulky.

However, the strap does have one minor issue. Like many before us, we found that the keeper doesn’t grip strongly enough, allowing the tail end to work loose throughout the day – a minor but noticeable annoyance during extended wear.

Just like at the end of our other reviews, we must ask ourselves: Is the Timex Expedition North GMT Titanium worth it?

After several months of wear, we’d argue that it’s not only worth the price, but could be one of the most compelling value propositions in the affordable GMT space, and perhaps the best GMT watch you can buy around the $500 mark.

What works exceptionally well is the overall package here. Full titanium construction at this price is genuinely impressive, especially paired with sapphire crystal, 200m water resistance, and applied lume indices. And while the NH34 movement is a “Caller” GMT, it provides reliable GMT functionality that will cover most users’ needs. 

On the flip side, some will argue that the design, which is clearly influenced by the Rolex Explorer II and Tudor Black Bay Pro, feels less inspired and perhaps more derivative, bordering on homage territory. And, we can fully understand and respect that. 

Ultimately, for us, this watch succeeds as part of Timex’s broader Renaissance. Alongside the Deepwater Reef 200 and various collaborations, it signals the brand is serious about serving enthusiasts. It’s exciting seeing an American brand with 170 years of history finally earning the respect it’s working toward.

The Expedition GMT Titanium is available now from Timex’s website for $599.

Recap

Timex Expedition North GMT Titanium

Proving Timex’s Renaissance is here to stay, the Expedition GMT Titanium is a sleek-looking (if not homaged) everyday GMT at an amazing price, and with superb construction and legibility.

Pros

• Titanium construction for a great price
• Sleek styling makes this look more premium than it is
• Good everyday GMT with movement visible through caseback
• 200m of water resistance is solid for the case size
• Superb legibility on dial and bezel
• Silicone strap is sturdy, if not utilitarian

Cons

• Lackluster lume, but not terrible
• Caller-style GMT movement not as great for traveling as a flyer GMT
• Some might not love its borrowed design from Tudor and Rolex
• Bezel has tendency to be knocked out of position too easily
• Strap should be tapered instead, and keeper doesn’t grip well

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