After nearly a decade of development setbacks and breakthroughs, TAG Heuer has successfully industrialized what many considered impossible: a carbon hairspring ready for commercial production. The innovation, called the TH-Carbonspring, could change watchmaking as we know it.
To debut the Carbonspring, the Swiss luxury brand has accompanied the news with new variants of the Carrera and Monaco models.
Carbon Beats Silicon at Its Own Game
By this point, we’ve seen enough silicon hairsprings that it’s difficult to become impressed with incremental improvements in amagnetic properties. However, TAG Heuer’s carbon solution addresses silicon’s main weakness: brittleness. Where silicon fractures under extreme shock loads of 5,000g, the TH-Carbonspring reportedly remains intact. The secret lies in carbon’s superior shock absorption while maintaining the lightweight properties that improve chronometric performance.
For starters, the hairspring runs on a Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) process with carbon nanotubes cultivated at temperatures between 600-850°C. Additionally, the manufacturing eliminates traditional assembly errors by growing the collet directly during production — which admittedly took nine years to perfect.
The real conversation starter centers on TAG Heuer’s decision to bypass patent-protected silicon technology entirely. Most movements struggle with silicon’s supply chain limitations and licensing costs, making carbon an attractive alternative for in-house production. To achieve this independence, TAG Heuer developed four proprietary patents covering everything from the CVD growth process to the collet integration method.
Two Icons Get the Carbon Treatment
For the inaugural TH-Carbonspring integration, TAG Heuer selected its most recognizable designs: the Monaco and Carrera. The Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring features a 39mm forged carbon case with the TH20-60 movement, delivering flyback functionality with an 80-hour power reserve. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring scales up to 44mm with the TH20-61 caliber, adding a flying tourbillon complication and 65-hour reserve.
Both models embrace full carbon construction with forged carbon cases, pushers, and crowns. The effect is remarkably cohesive — spiral-engraved carbon dials mirror the hairspring’s geometry while maintaining the architectural integrity each design is known for.
On both watches, black-gold hands with white Super-LumiNova create stark contrast against the textured carbon dials, while matching rubber straps with DLC titanium clasps complete the stealth-bomber appearance.
Despite the space-age materials, both watches retain 100m of water resistance and COSC chronometer certification — proving that innovation doesn’t require sacrificing fundamental reliability.
Spec Sheet
Model: Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring
Case Size: 39mm
Case Material: Forged carbon
Movement: In-house TH20-60 automatic flyback chronograph
Power Reserve: 80 hours
Water Resistance: 100m
Limited Edition: 50 pieces
Price: $17,900
Model: Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring
Case Size: 44mm
Case Material: Forged carbon with tachymeter bezel
Movement: In-house TH20-61 automatic chronograph tourbillon
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Water Resistance: 100m
Limited Edition: 50 pieces
Price: $42,100
Pricing & Availability
Priced at $17,900, the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring will be available starting December 2025, while the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring follows in Q1 2026 for $42,100.
Recap
TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Monaco Flyback Chronograph & Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport
TAG Heuer has launched the TH-Carbonspring, a revolutionary carbon-composite hairspring that took nearly a decade to develop and offers superior resistance to magnetism, shock, and temperature compared to traditional steel or silicon hairsprings. The technology debuts in two limited-edition models: the Monaco Flyback Chronograph and Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport, both featuring full forged carbon construction.
