Sometimes the most compelling watches come from the least expected places. The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT Limited Edition for Hodinkee stems from one of those serendipitous moments where a single vintage piece surfaces at exactly the right time. When an extremely rare 1960s Antarctic GMT reference 87013 appeared in the Hodinkee Shop, it caught Guillaume Laidet’s attention and directly inspired the resurrection of this almost-forgotten design. Now, nearly a year after that revival, Hodinkee has taken their own crack at refining the formula.
A Heritage Worth Reviving
The Antarctic line carries serious credentials. Originally dubbed the “Aquamatic” in the mid-1950s, it earned its current name after surviving the brutal conditions of the U.S. Navy’s Operation Deep Freeze Antarctic expedition in 1955. The GMT variant that followed in the 1960s was produced in such limited numbers that the Hodinkee Shop example remains one of the only known pieces to hit the vintage market. This scarcity speaks to both the watch’s original exclusivity and the broader disruption of the quartz crisis that cut short many interesting mechanical developments.
Modern Refinements on a Proven Formula
The collaboration takes a deliberately restrained approach to updating the original design. At 36mm in diameter and 40mm lug-to-lug, the proportions remain faithful to mid-century sizing preferences while feeling perfectly wearable today. The case thickness drops to a svelte 11.1mm — nearly 2mm thinner than the standard Antarctic GMT reissue — creating an old-school profile as well.
The dual-crown system also stays put, with the crown at 2 o’clock rotating the internal 24-hour bezel, while the 4 o’clock crown handles GMT hand adjustment and local time setting.
Dialing It In
Gone is the script “Antarctic” branding, replaced by a clean “Automatic GMT” at 6 o’clock that balances the full “Nivada Grenchen” wordmark at 12 o’clock. The result feels less cluttered than many modern GMT designs while still having a clear hierarchy.
More impressive is the comprehensive lume application. Beyond the expected treatment on hands and hour markers, the Super-LumiNova extends to the dial text, the checkered GMT hand, and the entire 24-hour bezel, creating a cohesive green glow on the watch face.
For the case finishing, vertical brushing on the top surfaces echoes the original EPSA compressor case aesthetic, while polished accents near the lugs give it a luxe touch. The sapphire crystal upgrade doubles water resistance from 50m to 100m, bringing the specs more in line with the Antarctic’s reputation as a serious tool watch.
Thoughtful Details
Behind the closed caseback featuring an engraved steel penguin medallion (a nod to the original’s gold-tone version), the Swiss Soprod C125 movement provides 42 hours of power reserve at 4Hz. Lastly, two strap options include a gray NATO for active use and a gray suede leather strap for more traditional wear.
Spec Sheet
Model: Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT Limited Edition for Hodinkee
Case Material: 316L stainless steel
Case Size: 36mm
Case Thickness: 11.1mm
Lug-to-Lug: 40mm
Crystal: Sapphire
Movement: Soprod C125 automatic GMT
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Water Resistance: 100m
Dial: Matte gray with Super-LumiNova
Strap: Gray NATO and gray suede leather
Limited Edition?: Yes, 225
Pricing & Availability
Limited to just 225 pieces, the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT Limited Edition for Hodinkee is priced at $1,740. It’s available exclusively from Watches of Switzerland’s website.
Recap
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT Limited Edition for Hodinkee
Hodinkee helps Nivada Grenchen revive the Antarctic GMT, a nearly forgotten 1960s explorer’s watch. Despite faithful aesthetics and proportions, modern upgrades like sapphire crystal and enhanced water resistance are welcomed.
