Porter’s Plant-Derived Nylon Gives the Classic MA-1 a Surprisingly Modern Edge

Developed in the 1950s to replace the fur-collared B-15, the MA-1 flight jacket eventually became one of the most legendary pieces of clothing ever and helped popularize military clothing for civilian wear. Over the decades, the coat has been replicated countless times, most notably by Japan’s Buzz Rickson’s in the ’90s who ensured their MA-1s were high-quality and period-correct.

If anything were synonymous with the MA-1, it would be its nylon construction, which was a point of difference between these jackets and the outgoing leather-built B-15s. Nylon was lighter in weight, durable, and naturally water-resistant. However, for its latest collaboration with Porter, Buzz Rickson’s has swapped that staid nylon for a plant-derived version of the fabric. And the results are better than expected.

Tanker DNA Meets Flight Jacket Heritage

Porter knows nylon — the brand built its reputation on it. When the company launched its iconic Tanker series back in 1984, it took direct inspiration from the MA-1 itself, developing a three-layer nylon construction that became a global cult item. For this collaboration marking Yoshida & Co.’s 90th anniversary, Porter brings its latest material innovation to Buzz Rickson’s signature silhouette: the world’s first mass-produced, 100% plant-derived nylon, developed alongside Toray Industries.

The jacket arrives in four colorways, including Sage Green and Black alongside the limited-edition Coyote. The latter is a warm brown that integrates the Tanker’s signature aesthetic with a contemporary finish. Surprisingly, the plant-based shell maintains the characteristic nylon luster you’d expect while delivering on Porter’s recent sustainability push.

A Cigarette Pocket with Actual Function

The left-sleeve cigarette pocket — a detail that’s become mostly vestigial on modern MA-1s — gets reimagined as a removable wallet with coin and bill compartments. You can detach it and carry it separately, which is far more useful than a pocket designed for a habit most people don’t have anymore.

Inside, the lining features a custom “traveling map” graphic, a nod to the navigational aids that once lined actual flight jackets. Porter notes the map placement is randomly selected for each individual jacket, giving every piece a slightly different character. There’s also a detachable strap system that snaps to the collar, allowing you to sling the jacket over your back when you get hot.

The insulation has been modernized too, swapping wool fill for 3M Thinsulate, which gives you a better warmth-to-weight ratio. Meanwhile, the sleeves incorporate Porter’s signature “Machi Extension” zipper function, letting you expand the armholes to help with layering.

Fit It Your Way

Buzz Rickson’s kept the proportions true to original 1957 spec MA-1s, but narrowed the body slightly and extended the length to work better with modern wardrobes. The dual-closure front — combining a zipper with snap buttons — lets you adjust the silhouette on the fly. Snap it up for a slimmer profile, or leave them open for a more traditional bomber look.

Behind the front oxygen tab (another period-correct detail), there’s a hidden pocket sized for phones and wallets, accessible even when the jacket’s buttoned up.

Spec Sheet

Pricing & Availability

Priced at ¥143,000 (around $908), the Buzz Rickson’s x Porter NA-1 comes out December 24 at Porter flagship stores in Japan and through the Yoshida & Co. online store. Each jacket comes with a special 90th anniversary drawstring bag, and quantities are limited.

Recap

Buzz Rickson’s x Porter NA-1

Porter and Buzz Rickson’s teamed up for a special MA-1 flight jacket that swaps the traditional nylon shell for the world’s first mass-produced plant-based version — complete with a removable wallet on the sleeve and modernized insulation.

Learn More: Yoshida