It seems almost absurd that a model that housed arguably the most legendary movement of all time just ceased to exist in production for nearly 40 years. Debuting in 1969, Zenith’s Defy was the platform used to debut the El Primero — the world’s first high-beat (5 Hz), fully integrated automatic chronograph movement, enabling 1/10th-second precision in a wristwatch caliber. Yet, following the quartz crisis and a halt in production of the El Primero for about a decade (until being revived again in the mid-’80s), the Defy was discontinued.
We got the Defy revival, finally, in 2022, but we’ve yet to see a recreation of one of the first Defy models, the A3643. Well, this week for LVMH Watch Week, Zenith is bringing back a faithful reissue of that very watch. Let’s take a look…
When Angular Watches Ruled
The whole Defy story started in the late ’60s when sports watches were taking on sharper, more architectural forms. Dive watches had proven waterproof cases were viable, and luxury brands were figuring out how to translate that durability into everyday wearable pieces. The A3643 came out of that moment with its octagonal mid-case, 14-sided bezel, and emblematic ladder-style Gay Frères bracelets.
Where the previously revived A3642 went with that gradient fumé dial — progressive for 1969 — this A3643 leans into more classic design language. The silver sunburst dial and understated two-tier hour markers make it less flashy, but it has the same timeless look that’s endured for more than half a century.
The Details Worth Noting
Zenith went the extra mile here, 3D scanning an original vintage A3643 dial to nail the sunburst texture and those trapezoidal hour markers. The markers themselves have a satin-brushed rhodium center flanked by glossy black-lacquered recesses. There’s Super-LumiNova on the hands and indices, and even the orange rectangle on the seconds hand glows green.
At 37mm, the steel case is size decidedly smaller than modern-day watches, but should wear well. Nevertheless, it boasts an impressive 300m of water resistance thanks in part to the screw-down crown with Zenith’s star logo, which is yet another a period-correct detail.
One departure from the original is that there’s now a sapphire exhibition caseback revealing the Elite 670 movement with its openworked star rotor. It’s not the El Primero (this isn’t a chronograph), but the in-house automatic caliber runs at 4Hz with a 50-hour reserve and 27 jewels.
Spec Sheet
Model: Zenith Defy Revival A3643
Case Material: Stainless steel
Case Size: 37mm
Movement: Zenith Elite 670 automatic
Water Resistance: 300m
Dial: Silver sunburst with applied two-tier hour markers
Lume: Super-LumiNova on hands and indices
Bracelet: Stainless steel ladder-style (Gay Frères–inspired)
Caseback: Sapphire exhibition
Limited Edition?: No
Pricing & Availability
The Zenith Defy Revival A3643 is available now through Zenith boutiques and authorized retailers for $7,800. It’s a permanent collection piece, so no rush on limited allocations here.
Recap
Zenith Defy Revival A3643
Zenith’s reviving the A3643, one of the first Defy models from 1969, with a faithful 37mm reissue featuring a clean silver sunburst dial and that iconic ladder bracelet. The brand 3D-scanned the original vintage dial to nail the look exactly.
