Review: Tudor Swaps Classic Black for Tropical With the Black Bay 54 ‘Lagoon Blue’

Picture this: It’s 1954, and Tudor is quietly developing what would become one of their most iconic dive watches alongside Rolex’s legendary Submariner debut. The Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7922 that emerged from this era wasn’t just another timepiece but a tool that would go on to serve the French and U.S. Navies, proving its mettle in the most demanding underwater conditions.

Fast-forward seven decades, and Tudor has taken that foundational DNA in a direction nobody saw coming. The Black Bay 54 ‘Lagoon Blue’ represents perhaps the most radical departure from Tudor’s tool-watch playbook we’ve ever witnessed. While the original BB54 from 2023 stayed faithful to its vintage inspiration with that classic black dial and understated presence, this new iteration throws caution to the wind with a sand-textured aquamarine dial, mirror-polished steel bezel, and a five-link bracelet that screams summer vacation more than serious diving.

Perhaps this is more than just a simple dial swap. And maybe it’s Tudor making a bold statement about where they see the brand heading in 2025. So the question remains: Has Tudor created the ultimate summer watch, or have they strayed too far from what made the Black Bay line special in the first place? Let’s dive into it.

Right off the bat, let’s address the elephant in the room — this doesn’t look like any Tudor we’ve seen before. While the brand has always been known for their purposeful, tool-first approach to watchmaking, the ‘Lagoon Blue’ feels like Tudor testing entirely new waters. The moment you lay eyes on it, comparisons to everything from the Oris Diver 65 Cotton Candy to Rolex’s Yacht-Master 37mm start flooding in, and honestly, that’s not entirely unfair.

The watch community’s reaction has been fascinating to watch unfold. On one hand, you’ve got enthusiasts praising Tudor for finally bringing some much-needed color and personality to their lineup. The texture on that lagoon blue dial is truly mesmerizing in person, catching light in ways that make you understand why Tudor chose this particular shade over the more predictable navy or traditional blue options we’ve seen on the BB58.

On the other hand, there’s a vocal contingent that feels this represents everything wrong with modern watch marketing — a brand chasing trends rather than staying true to their heritage. The polished steel bezel, in particular, has become a bit of a lightning rod for criticism, with many questioning whether Tudor has prioritized aesthetics over functionality.

But here’s what strikes us most about this release: It feels intentional in a way that suggests Tudor knows exactly what they’re doing. This isn’t a brand stumbling into fashion territory by accident. The ‘Lagoon Blue’ appears to be a calculated move to expand their customer base beyond the traditional tool-watch enthusiast. Whether that’s a good thing or not largely depends on your perspective, but there’s no denying the execution is typical Tudor — which is to say, pretty much flawless.

At 37mm, the Black Bay 54 has always been Tudor’s answer to the vintage sizing question, and the ‘Lagoon Blue’ doesn’t mess with that winning formula. In 2025’s landscape, where we’re seeing everything from 43mm Pelagos chronographs to brands finally embracing smaller proportions again, the 37mm case size feels both refreshingly retro and surprisingly contemporary.

The case construction remains identical to the original BB54 at 11.2mm thick with a 46mm lug-to-lug measurement that ensures this watch will work on a surprisingly wide range of wrist sizes. We tested it on both a 6.75-inch and 7-inch wrist, and while it looked perfectly proportioned on the smaller 6.75-inch wrist seen here for reference, it definitely started to feel on the smaller side for the 7-inch wrist. And this isn’t necessarily a criticism. Frankly, it’s exactly what you’d expect from a watch paying homage to 1950s proportions.

Where things start getting interesting here is that polished steel bezel. Tudor has made their first foray into stainless steel bezels in 25 years, and the results are both spectacular and maybe even slightly terrifying. The 60-click unidirectional rotating bezel features a mirror-polished steel insert that’s been simplified compared to the BB58. Gone are the minute markers between the 15 and 60-minute positions, and a lumed pip at 12 o’clock rounds things out.

The mirror finish creates an incredibly bright, airy feeling that fundamentally changes the watch’s character compared to the matte black aluminum insert of the original. It’s beautiful in the right light, creating reflections that play off the textured dial in compelling ways.

But – and this is a significant but – this bezel is going to be an absolute fingerprint magnet and scratch collector. Some will embrace this as part of the watch’s story, but if you’re the type who obsesses over pristine finishes, this might not be the Tudor for you.

The crown maintains Tudor’s signature rose embossing but with a slightly more minimalist design compared to the BB58. It’s still a screw-down unit ensuring that 200m water resistance, though let’s be honest, this feels more like a poolside companion than a serious diving instrument.

The case finishing strikes that familiar Tudor balance between brushed surfaces on the case sides and polished elements that catch the eye, and when you flip it over, you’ll find a solid caseback with all the usual Tudor markings.

Turning our attention to that dial. This is where the ‘Lagoon Blue’ either wins you over completely or loses you entirely. That sand-textured dial is unlike anything Tudor has produced before, and the effect is absolutely stunning in person. It’s much more impressive than we expected from photos. The lagoon blue color shifts subtly depending on lighting conditions, sometimes appearing almost white in bright sunlight and deepening to a rich aquamarine in shadow.

The texture itself also deserves special mention – it’s neither the familiar sunburst patterns we see elsewhere in Tudor’s lineup nor the more aggressive texturing found on some of the Grand Seiko dials we all know and love. Instead, it’s a fine, granular finish that adds dimensionality without being distracting. In person, it reads as sophisticated and purposeful rather than gimmicky.

One detail that often gets overlooked is how Tudor handled the text and markers here. Rather than the gilt accents that define most Black Bay models, everything here is rendered in a subtle light gray that creates this beautiful monochromatic feeling. The Tudor shield and text at 12 o’clock blend seamlessly with the dial color, while the minute track around the perimeter is kept deliberately minimal.

The applied hour markers maintain their familiar proportions but are filled with what might be the brightest Super-LumiNova we’ve seen from Tudor. Even in well-lit conditions, you can see that lume charge glowing through.

The handset retains the signature snowflake hour and minute hands that Tudor fans know and love, but the seconds hand gets that classic ‘lollipop’ treatment that’s a direct nod to the 1954 reference 7922. All three hands feature the same light gray treatment as the markers, maintaining that cohesive, almost ethereal aesthetic.

Under that solid caseback beats Tudor’s Manufacture Calibre MT5400, the same movement that powers the original BB54. This is a COSC-certified automatic with a 70-hour power reserve, and while it’s not the newest movement in Tudor’s arsenal, it’s proven itself reliable and accurate across the Black Bay range.

The MT5400 is essentially a scaled-down version of the MT5402 found in the BB58, adjusted to fit the smaller 37mm case. Both movements share the same fundamental architecture – silicon balance spring, bidirectional rotor, and that impressive 70-hour power reserve.

However, there’s been some grumbling in the community about Tudor not upgrading to their newer METAS-certified movements for this release. That said, in practice, the MT5400 delivers exactly what you’d expect from a modern Tudor movement. The winding feels smooth, the rotor is reasonably quiet, and accuracy has been consistently impressive across the BB54 range. 

At this price point, it’s hard to complain about getting an in-house movement with these specifications, even if it’s not Tudor’s absolute latest and greatest.

Ok, let’s talk about the bracelet for a moment. Here’s where Tudor has made perhaps the most significant upgrade to the BB54 formula. Gone is the controversial riveted oyster-style bracelet that divided opinion on the original, replaced by a sophisticated five-link design that immediately elevates the entire package.

The five-link construction creates this incredibly fluid, almost fabric-like drape that makes the watch disappear on your wrist in the best possible way. The brushed outer links contrast beautifully with polished center links that mirror the bezel’s finish, creating visual continuity across the entire watch.

Of course, Tudor’s T-fit clasp system is present here, and the micro-adjustment system continues to be one of our favorites on the market.

If there’s one minor critique, it’s that those polished center links will show scratches just as readily as the bezel. But in a watch that’s clearly prioritizing style over pure utility, this feels like an acceptable trade-off.

So, is the Tudor Black Bay 54 ‘Lagoon Blue’ worth it? That’s a more complicated question than it might initially appear.

On pure execution, this watch is everything you’d expect from Tudor and delivers across the board. The build quality is excellent, the finishing is sophisticated, and the attention to detail is exactly what you’d expect from the brand. At $4,350, you’re getting an in-house movement, solid construction, and striking aesthetics that will absolutely turn heads.

But this isn’t really a watch about pure value proposition. The ‘Lagoon Blue’ represents Tudor’s attempt to expand beyond their traditional audience, and whether you embrace that direction will largely determine how you feel about this particular release.

For those who’ve been waiting for Tudor to inject some personality and color into their lineup, this watch delivers in spades. The lagoon blue dial is stunning, the proportions are near-perfect for vintage sizing enthusiasts, and the overall package feels fresh in a way that’s distinctly Tudor while being unlike anything they’ve done before.

However, if you’re drawn to Tudor for their tool-watch heritage and no-nonsense approach to design, this might feel like a step too far into lifestyle territory. The polished surfaces, fashion-forward color, and overall aesthetic lean more toward jewelry than serious diving equipment.

The real question isn’t whether Tudor got this watch right – they absolutely did – but whether this represents the direction you want to see the brand heading. For us, it’s refreshing to see Tudor willing to take risks and explore new territory, even if it means occasionally straying from their established formula.

Recap

Tudor Black Bay 54 ‘Lagoon Blue’

The Tudor Black Bay 54 ‘Lagoon Blue’ represents Tudor’s boldest departure from their tool-watch playbook, delivering a sand-textured aquamarine dial and mirror-polished steel bezel that prioritizes style over pure utility while maintaining the brand’s exceptional build quality and vintage-inspired 37mm proportions.

Pros

• Stunning sand-textured lagoon blue dial unlike anything Tudor has produced
• Mirror-polished steel bezel creates bright, airy aesthetic
• Excellent five-link bracelet with T-fit clasp system
• Perfect 37mm vintage proportions for smaller wrists
• Exceptional lume performance, brightest we’ve seen from Tudor
• Sophisticated monochromatic design language
• In-house MT5400 movement with 70-hour power reserve

Cons

• Polished surfaces are fingerprint magnets and scratch easily
• Movement lacks newer METAS certification found in other Tudor releases
• 37mm case may feel too small for larger wrists
• Design leans more toward lifestyle piece than serious tool watch
• Bezel grip can be challenging due to slim profile
• Premium price for what some may see as fashion-forward variant

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