Review: Longines’ White-Dial Legend Diver Might be the Perfect Vintage-Inspired Dive Watch

In 1959, while the dive-watch genre was really starting to gain momentum, Longines was already beginning to push the boundaries with their reference 7042 — a dual-crown super-compressor diver that would become the blueprint for one of today’s most compelling vintage-inspired timepieces — the Longines Legend Diver.

Founded in 1832 in Saint-Imier, Switzerland by Auguste Agassiz, Longines built their reputation on precision timekeeping and innovation. By the mid-20th century, they were producing professional instruments for aviators, explorers, and divers alike. The 7042 employed an EPSA-manufactured super-compressor case, an ingenious design that used water pressure to actually improve the seal. That dual-crown setup wasn’t just for show either; it protected the internal rotating bezel from accidental manipulation underwater, a feature that could literally save your life when oxygen calculations mattered.

Fast forward all the way to 2007, and Longines brought back the Legend Diver — a full five years before Tudor’s Black Bay kicked off the heritage diver craze. The watch persisted through various iterations, but it wasn’t until 2023 that Longines hit the sizing sweet spot with a 39mm case. And heading into this past summer, they’ve introduced this beautiful white dial variant that might just be the most compelling Legend Diver yet.

Before we ever got hands on with this thing, this was a watch that just felt right with a white dial — and that’s the first thing that hits you when seeing this watch in person. We’ve seen the Legend Diver in blue, black, green, grey, and even terracotta, but white just brings something different — there’s a crispness and legibility that really just transforms the watch’s personality entirely.

Where darker dials on the 39mm can feel slightly cramped with all the visual elements competing for attention, the white dial feels like it breathes. The matte finish prevents it from looking sterile, while the black-on-white contrast is stellar for legibility. It does wear slightly larger than its 39mm dimensions suggest, partially due to that prominent box sapphire crystal and partially because white just presents bolder on the wrist.

The community reception has been overwhelmingly positive, though there are some predictable talking points that are absolutely worth addressing right out the gate — namely, the price jump. Like many of our favorite watches, the price has climbed from around $2,300 when the original modern Legend Diver released  (one we reviewed back in 2022), and jumped all the way to $3,850 for this white dial variant on the bracelet. And unsurprisingly, that price jump has sparked debate about whether Longines is pricing itself out of its value proposition sweet spot — something the brand has been praised for throughout the years.

In terms of design DNA, this watch sits in a really fascinating space. It shares internal bezel architecture with watches like the IWC Aquatimer and JLC Polaris, both of which cost three to four times as much. But unlike many competitors, Longines actually made these watches back in 1959 — so this really feels more like heritage than pastiche.

At 39mm in diameter, 12.7mm thick, and 47mm lug-to-lug, the Legend Diver’s proportions are damn near perfect. For reference, the Tudor Black Bay 58 measures 39mm with similar thickness, and that watch is universally lauded for its wearability.

On our wearer’s 6.75″ wrist, the watch sits comfortably with no overhang and enough presence to feel substantial without overwhelming. The short lugs curve downward immediately, helping the watch hug the wrist nicely. That sub-13mm thickness is particularly impressive when you consider you’re getting 300m of water resistance and full ISO 6425 dive watch certification.

The case finishing strikes a nice balance between tool watch functionality and refined aesthetics, which is great for a desk diver, and perhaps not so ideal for actual diving. Brushed surfaces dominate the sides and lugs, while polished accents appear on the bezel and select elements. As we previously mentioned, the dual crowns are the defining characteristic here — at 2 o’clock, the bezel crown operates the internal rotating bezel bidirectionally, and at 4 o’clock sits the time-setting crown. Both are cross-hatched for grip and screw down securely.

The bezel crown turns smoothly with enough resistance to prevent accidental adjustment, though admittedly, it lacks the satisfying clicks of a traditional external bezel. Some might find the dual-crown setup a bit of a hassle. For instance, it’s much more difficult to adjust the bezel on the wrist by comparison, but there’s something charming about the ritual of unscrewing the top crown, setting your dive time, and locking it back down. It’s also visually appealing to watch the bezel rotate.

Generously domed with multiple layers of anti-reflective coating, the box sapphire crystal dominates the dial opening and gives the watch a distinctly vintage profile. The AR coating is excellent here, and we experienced minimal glare even in direct sunlight.

Flipping the watch over reveals a screw-down caseback with a beautifully embossed diver silhouette at the center. And if you look closely, you’ll notice the diver is actually wearing a Legend Diver on their wrist. It’s a nice finishing touch that really showcases Longines’ attention to detail.

Shifting our attention to that matte white dial for a moment as this is where the watch truly shines. We must say, Longines has executed the finish beautifully. It’s pure white without being stark, and provides the perfect canvas for the black elements to pop. The texture is slightly grainy in person which helps prevent the dial from looking flat.

Starting from the outside, we have that sloping internal bezel with printed indices and a luminous triangle at 12 o’clock. The bezel adds serious dimensionality and helps frame the time display. At the cardinal positions, you’ll find oversized Arabic numerals in black with a slightly raised texture, complemented by rectangular hour markers at the remaining positions.

We should definitely take a quick moment to address the “13/91” situation that’s sparked debate throughout the watch forums and other reviews. At 3 and 9 o’clock, the rectangular lume plots partially overlap with the Arabic numerals, creating shapes some people see as “13” and “91.” On the white dial, this effect is certainly less pronounced than on the darker variants. And, while we do see why people have complaints here, this really felt like a non-issue, and didn’t really bother us while wearing the watch over summer. 

The handset consists of a distinctive arrow-shaped hour hand, a tapered baton minute hand, and a slim seconds hand with an arrow tip. All three are finished in matte black with a textured surface that matches the Arabic numerals, creating solid cohesion across the dial.

Lume performance is where the Legend Diver shows some weakness. Longines uses Swiss Super-LumiNova in a pale green shade, applied to the hands, hour markers, and that triangle at 12. The initial charge is bright and the glow lasts reasonably long, but it’s not the strongest we’ve seen on an ISO-rated dive watch. Watches like the Tudor Black Bay or Seiko Prospex offer noticeably brighter lume. For desk diving (which is what 99% of us do), it’s perfectly adequate though.

At 12 o’clock, the dial features the vintage Longines wordmark and their winged hourglass logo, while “Automatic” appears in elegant script at 6 o’clock. There’s no date window, which keeps the dial balanced and symmetrical.

Inside beats the Longines caliber L888.6, and this might be where the price increase starts to make a bit more sense. While technically ETA-derived, it’s a Swatch Group-exclusive movement assembled and tested at Longines’ Saint-Imier headquarters and does feature some meaningful upgrades.

The L888.6 incorporates a silicon balance spring, which provides exceptional resistance to magnetic fields and temperature variations. Longines claims magnetic resistance ten times greater than the ISO 764 standard, which means your watch won’t be affected by laptops, phones, or speakers.

The movement is also COSC-certified, guaranteeing accuracy within -4 to +6 seconds per day. Our test example ran at +3 seconds per day, which was well within spec.

Operating at 25,200 vibrations per hour, the L888.6 delivers an impressive 72-hour power reserve. The movement features hacking seconds and hand-winding capability, and pulling the crown has no ghost date position — a little detail that we were thankful for when regularly adjusting a time-only watch.

Could they have used an in-house movement? Sure, but that would have most definitely pushed the price well over $5,000. This feels like the right movement at the right price point, still offering some nice performance upgrades over standard ETA calibers.

Onto the beads-of-rice bracelet, which uses a pin-and-collar system rather than screwed links — a choice that has drawn fire from enthusiasts who feel that at $3,850, screws should be standard. We definitely understand the complaint, though it’s worth mentioning that the pins are well-executed and the bracelet does feel solid on the wrist during daily wear.

The bracelet tapers from 20mm at the lugs to 16mm at the clasp, a healthy taper that prevents the watch from feeling top-heavy. The beads-of-rice links are beautifully finished with polished center sections flanked by brushed outer links.

The star of the show here is the clasp, which features tool-free micro-adjustment with four positions. This is a much welcomed upgrade from earlier Legend Diver models and makes daily wear significantly more comfortable. The clasp is fully milled rather than stamped, features a double-button release for security, and bears the Longines winged hourglass logo.

Ok, so as we wrap things up, we once again ask the age-old question: Is the Longines Legend Diver 39mm White Dial worth it?

At $3,850, this watch competes with the slightly more expensive Tudor Black Bay 58 at $4,500 and the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 around $4,200. And, on the more affordable end, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five and Rado Captain Cook offer compelling alternatives under $3,000.

What you’re getting with the Legend Diver is legitimate super-compressor heritage from a brand that actually made these watches in the 1950s. You’re getting COSC-certified timekeeping with silicon balance spring and exceptional magnetic resistance. You’re also getting 300 meters of water resistance in a slim, wearable package with a tool-free micro-adjust clasp. And the white dial is absolutely stunning in person — and really nails that summer versatility.

The cons are real but manageable. Lume performance trails competitors. The bracelet uses pins rather than screws. The price has climbed substantially. And that internal bezel, while charming, is less convenient than a traditional external bezel.

But Longines is a brand that listens. They downsized from 42mm to 39mm because enthusiasts asked for it. They added tool-free micro-adjust because it improves daily wear. That responsiveness is rare and deserves recognition.

For anyone seeking a distinctive dive watch with genuine heritage, excellent specifications, and summer-ready style, the Legend Diver White Dial is an absolute contender. It works equally well at the beach or the office, on leather or that beads-of-rice bracelet. And in a market increasingly dominated by homogeneous designs and skyrocketing prices, Longines offers something refreshingly different at a price that feels justified, and continues to prove they’re one of the smartest plays in Swiss watchmaking today.

Recap

Longines Legend Diver White Dial

Longines just gave its iconic Legend Diver the perfect refresh with a new 39mm white dial version that nails the balance between vintage charm and modern wearability. It’s pricier than before, but with COSC accuracy, real super-compressor heritage, and that crisp summer-ready look, it feels like the most complete Legend Diver yet.

Pros

• Genuine super-compressor heritage and design lineage
• Perfectly balanced 39mm case with great wrist presence
• Crisp white dial adds freshness and legibility
• COSC-certified movement with silicon balance spring
• 300m water resistance and iso dive certification
• Upgraded bracelet with tool-free micro-adjust clasp
• Refined finishing that blends tool and dress watch appeal

Cons

• Lume brightness and longevity are underwhelming
• Bracelet still uses pins instead of screws
• Internal bezel can be awkward to adjust on the wrist
• Noticeable price jump compared to earlier models
• Dial overlap issue at 3 and 9 remains mildly distracting
• Less ideal for true diving compared to modern tool divers

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