Leica’s Urban Green ZM Watches Master the Fumé Trend with a Gradient Effect

When Ernst Leitz spent time working for a Swiss watchmaker back in 1863, he probably didn’t imagine his precision engineering legacy would eventually circle back to wristwatches 160 years later. But here we are with Leica’s new ZM 1 and ZM 2 Urban Green models. Its beautiful fumé noir dial, graduating from rich forest green to inky black at the edges, represents the latest chapter in a horological journey that began in earnest only three years ago, but still feels deeply rooted in the brand’s mechanical DNA.

From Cameras to Complications

Leica’s path into serious watchmaking wasn’t some hasty brand extension. After testing the waters with a limited collaboration alongside Geneva’s Valbray atelier over a decade ago, the German camera maker spent years assembling a horological dream team consisting of longtime Leica designer Achim Heine, the late Reinhard Meis (formerly of A. Lange & Söhne), Swiss master Andreas Strehler, and Markus Lehmann of Lehmann Präzision. When they finally launched the ZM series in early 2022 (originally called L1 and L2 before rebranding under the Zeitmesser concept), it was clear this wasn’t about slapping the red dot on someone else’s movement but crafting an entirely new product that could stand on its own.

The Urban Green models mark a significant evolution for the ZM line. These are the first colored dials we’ve seen for the flagship models, aside from a limited-edition red gold piece with a brown dial back in 2023. More importantly, the brand debuts the fumé gradient effect, a technique that’s become increasingly popular but rarely executed with this level of sophistication, let alone at this price point.

The Green Rush Done Right

While green dials are having a bit of a moment right now, Leica puts its own spin on the trend with its fumé noir approach, which feels like looking through a camera lens at a gorgeous landscape in the distance, especially under the domed sapphire crystal evocative of said lens. The vertical brushing on the aluminum adds another layer of visual interest that goes beyond just flat colors, shifting with light at different angles.

The Urban Green editions sport the same case specs as past versions, including the 41mm case diameter, stainless steel housing, and 50m water resistance. Nevertheless, the green dial almost makes you forget these are the same as what we’ve seen in the past.

The new Milanese bracelet option deserves special mention as Leica’s first venture into metal bracelets. The brushed finish complements the case beautifully, and the deployant clasp includes micro-adjustments (though not on the fly). The leather options include black calf or alligator with green contrast stitching, both maintaining a camera strap aesthetic that’s become central to the ZM identity.

German Engineering at Its Finest

When the ZM 1 and ZM 2 debuted, they also featured in-house hand-wound movements from Leica, which make a return here as well. These feature a first-of-its-kind push-crown, which was not only inspired by the look of a camera’s shutter release but its function. Rather than pulling the crown out to set the time, the wearer pressed it in, which would stop the movement momentarily and reset the small seconds hand to 0. Meanwhile, a small aperture would go from white to red to let you know the movement was off. 

The ZM 2 is the same as the ZM 1, save for the addition of a GMT function to read a second time zone and a day/night indicator on the dial. The power reserve indicator with its converging blades mimics camera aperture mechanics, while the ZM 2’s day/night indicator takes visual cues from camera mode dials. The hand-wound calibers, manufactured in Germany, deliver 60 hours of power reserve with a solid 4Hz beat rate and can be viewed through the exhibition caseback. 

These releases coincide with Leica’s celebration of the 100th anniversary of the Leica I, the first mass-produced 35mm camera introduced at the Leipzig Spring Fair in 1925. With this release, along with some special camera limited-editions already, it’s safe to say, the company is celebrating its jubilee year the right way.

Spec Sheet

Pricing & Availability

Not limited in edition size, the ZM 1 Urban Green starts at $10,850, while the GMT-equipped ZM 2 is priced at $14,950. Both are available now through select Leica stores and online. 

Recap

Leica ZM1 & ZM2 Urban Green

Leica levels up its flagship ZM 1 and ZM 2 watches with gradient fume green dials that evoke the effect of looking through a camera lens.

Learn More: Leica