Just a couple months after launching the first-ever Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm in stainless steel (hard to believe, we know), Blancpain has pulled another surprise from its depths with the debut of a 38mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique. Both new references also feature mother-of-pearl dials with dégradé finishes, marking a bold departure from the utilitarian black dials that have defined this legendary collection since 1953.
Where “small watches” used to be a sign of vintage watchmaking, the industry has been steadily migrating toward smaller case diameters once again. Perhaps it’s merely a sign of our current culture’s love for those old-school timepieces, but also comfort is a big selling point these days for those ready to spend thousands of dollars on a watch.
Blancpain’s decision to finally offer a sub-40mm Fifty Fathoms feels nevertheless overdue and something enthusiasts have been requesting for years. While the brand positions these as “women’s watches” — hence the new all-pink version — the reality is that 38mm has become the new normal for contemporary men’s timepieces too.
Two Distinct Personalities
The collection launches with two dramatically different executions. The first, in brushed grade 23 titanium with a pink mother-of-pearl dial and matching pink bezel (Ref. 5007-12B44R), leans heavily into feminine aesthetics. Available on either a two-tone fabric NATO strap or matching titanium bracelet, it’s very obviously designed to appeal to a specific demographic. The pink dégradé effect transitions from deeper tones at the periphery to lighter shades toward the center, designed to create visual depth that changes with lighting conditions.
As a counterpoint, the second variant (Ref. 5007-3644A) is much darker. Housed in polished 18-karat red gold with a black mother-of-pearl dial and black sapphire bezel, this piece shouts “luxury” but still looks very much like a watch you could possibly wear underwater. The graduated black mother-of-pearl creates an almost smoky effect that admittedly helps with legibility. Available with your choice of black tropic rubber, sailcloth, or NATO straps, this 38mm Automatique might not be marketed as a men’s model but we’d be ready to put it on our wrists in a heartbeat.
Technical Foundation Remains Solid
Both variants house Blancpain’s in-house Caliber 1153 automatic movement, an impressive engine with 100 hours of power reserve and a silicon balance spring. Visible through the exhibition caseback, the movement operates at 3Hz and features 28 jewels across 186 components, which are specs that put it on par with Blancpain’s larger Fifty Fathoms models.
Despite being 38.2mm across, the case still measures a relatively surprising 12mm thickness, perhaps to maintain the 300m of water resistance you expect in a Fifty Fathoms. Sporting the 60-minute diving scale, the unidirectional sapphire bezel has lumed markers, while the hands and indices utilize Super-LumiNova as well.
A Glimpse of What’s Coming
Perhaps the most intriguing aspect of this release isn’t what Blancpain has shown us, but what they’ve hinted at. The brand explicitly states that “the new 38mm case size opens the door to future additions within the Fifty Fathoms family.” Translation: More variants are coming, and they’ll likely address the obvious gaps in this inaugural release.
As happy as we are to see Blancpain playing with color and dial materials, we would love a 38mm FF Automatique in the more traditional black or blue dials — in either titanium or the new steel at that.
Spec Sheet
Model: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm
Case Material: 18k red gold or Grade 23 titanium
Case Size: 38.2mm
Case Thickness: 12mm
Water Resistance: 300m
Movement: Blancpain Caliber 1153 automatic
Power Reserve: 100 hours
Dial: Mother-of-pearl with black or pink dégradé
Straps: NATO, tropic rubber, or sailcloth (black); titanium bracelet or pink NATO strap (pink)
Limited Edition?: No
Pricing & Availability
The titanium variant starts at $18,500 on the NATO strap, climbing to $21,700 with the titanium bracelet. Meanwhile, the red gold version is priced a bit higher, ranging from $31,600 to $34,600, depending on the strap choice. Both models are available now through Blancpain boutiques worldwide, and they’re not limited editions.
Recap
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm Mother-of-Pearl
Blancpain finally made its fan-favorite Fifty Fathoms Automatique with a 38mm case. Featuring stunning mother-of-pearl dials, these inaugural watches are available in titanium or gold, but are just the first wave of releases.
