When New Balance dropped the 991 in 2001, the footwear brand may not have been expecting just how legendary the shoe would become. Starting as a running shoe, the 991 wasn’t the first to crossover into everyday wardrobes (we were already seeing this with the Nike Air Max and Adidas ZX) but it was perhaps the first to become a codified “soft luxury” staple. Arriving just as Y2K-era Italian tailoring took off and style-seekers in Milan and at Pitti were pairing it with suits instead of just denim or track pants. The legacy of the 991 was cemented in 2007 when Steve Jobs donned the sneakers to give his Macworld keynote that introduced the iPhone.
Now, the 991 is making a return, and New Balance is giving it perhaps the best rendition yet with elevated materials to honor the legacy of the original.
Vegetable-Tanned Leather Takes Center Stage
The new Made in UK 991v1 “Luxury Leather” is unmistakably inspired by vintage Italian luggage. New Balance sourced premium vegetable-tanned leather across Europe, opting for warm caramel and chocolate tones that practically beg for a comparison to classic Gucci trunks or well-worn leather goods you’d find at a Florentine market. It’s a direct callback to the shoe’s early adopters in Italy, where the 991 became synonymous with sprezzatura.
The upper is bathed entirely in these rich earth tones, with tonal paneling that shifts between lighter and darker shades. Even the laces match the overall palette. Over time, the leather will develop a patina akin to breaking in a raw denim jacket or a leather wallet.
Made in UK Still Means Something
Flimby, the small coastal village in Cumbria that’s home to New Balance’s UK factory, has been producing the 991 since day one. The “Made in UK” designation showcases a smaller-batch production and higher-grade materials. This version doubles down on that ethos. Where mass-market New Balance models might use standard synthetics, the 991v1 gets the full high-end treatment, aligning it more closely with the artisanal goods that inspired its design.
For context, the 991 was the first in the 99X series to feature visible ABZORB cushioning in both the heel and forefoot, paired with ENCAP support structures. That combination made it a workhorse runner back in the day, but it’s also why the shoe translates so well to practical daily wear. The performance tech is still there in this reissue.
Coexisting With the 991v2
New Balance recently introduced the 991v2, which updates the cushioning package and leans more into modern performance tech. The v2 has a sportier, sleeker profile. By bringing back the v1 alongside it, New Balance is positioning the original as the “classic luxury offering” while the v2 handles the athletic side of things. Although they’re priced the same, the v1’s cleaner lines and more upright silhouette are better suited to premium leather constructions like this one, whereas the v2’s streamlined look works with tech fabrics and contemporary colorways.
Spec Sheet
Model: Made in UK M991v1 “Luxury Leather”
Upper: Premium vegetable-tanned leather
Colorway: Chocolate Plum with Caramel Cafe and Tan
Midsole: ENCAP cushioning with lightweight foam and durable polyurethane rim
Cushioning: ABZORB midsole pods (heel and forefoot)
Outsole: Ndurance rubber in high-wear zones
Made in: UK (Flimby factory)
Price: $270
Pricing & Availability
The Made in UK 991v1 “Luxury Leather” is available now at New Balance and retailers for $270. However, stock is limited and it’s selling out rather quickly.
Recap
New Balance Made in UK 991v1 Luxury Leather
New Balance brought back the 991v1 with a full premium vegetable-tanned leather treatment inspired by vintage Italian luggage, complete with warm caramel and chocolate tones that nod to the shoe’s early adopters in Milan and Florence. At $270, it’s the most elevated version of the classic runner yet, made in the UK’s Flimby factory with the same ABZORB and ENCAP cushioning that made it a legend back in 2001.
