The 12 Best Japanese Denim Brands You Should Know

The story of denim is about as American as it gets. A Bavarian immigrant found a way to make pants strong enough to withstand the rigors of mining in California’s Gold Rush. Then, one thing leads to another. And another. Eventually, the blue jeans that were once sold to fortune sneakers morphed into an American icon. So how, exactly, has it come to be that some of the best denim in the world is now made in Japan? Well, stick around for our best Japanese denim brands guide to find out why and learn about some of the leaders in the space.

The History of Japanese Denim

In part, the proliferation of Japanese denim was the result of the country’s post-WWII obsession with American culture. Anything American-made or representative of American culture was highly sought after – especially blue jeans. In the 1960s, Kurabo Mills in Kojima, Japan started producing their own jeans using fabric sourced from the U.S. Not long after that, however, Kurabo managed to make their very own denim fabric, dubbing it KD-8, a reference to the 8 tries to get it right, and the mill (Kurabo) where it was made. More than just the fact that these were being built in Japan, what made this fabric (and Japanese denim more generally) special was the fact that it was made on old looms and used natural dye. A lot has changed since that first pair of jeans was made with Japanese denim in 1973. More and more brands have cropped up, and the market has shifted in part from Japanese youth obsessed with American culture to American kids trying to get their hands on either classically made denim, or high-end streetwear.

What makes Japanese denim so special?

This comes down to the fact that many Japanese denim manufacturers stick to traditional methods of making denim. This involved process often includes traditional shuttle looms, hand-sewing and handmade construction, and natural indigo dyeing techniques. Since making high-quality denim jeans like this takes a while, the cost and prestige surrounding them reflect that.

What to look for

Material: You’re looking for denim that’s been made in Japan and sourced from high-quality cotton. Additionally, keep an eye out for the brands that specialize in using natural indigo and classic dyeing processes, this is a big deal for Japanese denim manufacturers and a signal of quality.

Selvedge Denim: More often than not, Japanese denim will also be selvedge denim. If you’re not familiar, selvedge denim is a fabric that’s been woven to include a self-edge on the edges of the fabric. This prevents the edge of the denim from fraying and unravelling, and provides a cleaner and better look/texture overall.

Raw Denim: Raw (or unwashed) denim is another popular choice for Japanese denim jeans, and it just means that the fabric hasn’t been washed or pre-shrunk. Raw denim jeans will be stiffer at first and take longer to break in, but you’re usually getting a sturdier pair of jeans with an interesting texture and color.

Sanforization: This process involves pre-shrinking the fabric before it’s cut so it shrinks less after the first wash, and is more stable overall. If the jeans haven’t been sanforized, they’re likely going to stretch more, but the company will often let you know how much stretch to expect and where to expect it.

Weight: Lighter jeans around 12 oz and below are generally more comfortable, but not as durable as heavier jeans. Heavier jeans around 16 oz and above will be harder to break in, so if you’re just getting into Japanese denim, something in the middle is a good choice.

Fit: Firstly, check and see what care and size instructions the brand has provided. But generally speaking, if a pair of jeans has been sanforized or pre-shrunk, you’ll want to size down a bit, but they should still be a little tight when you first put them on. For jeans that haven’t been sanforized, you can go a couple of sizes bigger as they’re going to shrink more.

Blue Blue Japan

The type of indigo dye used on Japanese denim is, in part, what makes it special. Rather than using synthetic dyes that don’t run as easily, brands like Blue Blue Japan use older, traditional methods. As a result, each piece of their clothing takes on a unique look after extended wear. You can find them in online men’s stores like Unionmade.

Editor’s pick: PA097

These Japanese-made jeans are constructed with 13.9oz of 100% cotton denim and feature a straight cut. The pockets are deep and easy to access, and there’s some gray stitching in the fabric for a nice color complement. Additionally, the fabric in these jeans will mold to your body over time, giving you a personal fit.

Sugar Cane and Co.

Sugar Cane has always placed a lot of value in doing vintage denim right. These purists broke down every step of the denim process and learned it; from the dyeing to the fit, hardware, and yarns – and it all shows through. Sugar Cane turns out predictably top-quality vintage-style work wear. Unfortunately, they can be a bit hard to find here in the States other than in stores like Self Edge.

Editor’s pick: 1947 Unwashed Raw Selvage-Denim Jeans

This is one of the brand’s most iconic jeans, and it’s made with 14.25oz of Japanese selvedge denim. The denim is one-washed and hasn’t been sanforized, and you can expect about 1.5″ of stretch in the waist after around 30 wears. These jeans are also made on the original ’30s narrow shuttle looms and feature a straight cut.

Big John

Being first means something. And not only was Big John the first to create a pair of 100-percent Japanese-made jeans, but they were also the first to create Japanese selvedge in the 1980s. While they may not have the cool-kid cache of some of the other brands on this list, without Big John, it is hard to say for sure if any of these brands would even exist.

Editor’s pick: M106G

If you’re looking for a pair of jeans from a truly classic brand, then these are a great pick. They’re made in Japan with 23oz of raw selvedge denim and have a slim fit through the hip and the thigh. Do not that the raw denim will cause the jeans to shrink after washing (not forever), so pay special attention to the label’s size chart.

Momotaro Jeans

Founded in 2006 in the same town that pioneered Japanese denim, Momotaro Jeans have set themselves apart by building some of the most coveted fabrics and using a unique natural dyeing process. They use a natural process that utilizes the inigofera tictoraia plant. This type of dyeing is rare in that it doesn’t fade with age – and in fact, gets a little darker because the dye penetrates into the center of the jeans rather than just resting on the surface waiting to be rubbed off.

Editor’s pick: 0905SP

This offering from Momotaro Jeans is straight cut and built with 15oz of unsanforized Original Pink selvedge denim made with 100% Zimbabwe cotton and a deep indigo dye. You’re getting a high rise with a loose thigh and bottom, and Original Jacquard pocket lining.

Studio D’Artisan

A denim stalwart, Studio D’Artisan has been making its own fabric and sewing its own jeans since the late 1970s. When the West rediscovered selvedge denim in the late nineties and mid-aughts, this Osaka-based brand was among the most popular. Yet, despite being one of the more sought-after brands, they’re hard to come by.

Editor’s pick: 15oz Natural Indigo Regular Straight

These jeans are made with 15oz of unsanforized selvedge denim that’s been dyed with natural indigo. This indigo comes from local sources of the Indigofera plant, which has a small production output in Japan, making it a rare choice for dye. They also have a straight fit and a five-button fly with original buttons from the studio.

Evisu

It wasn’t until Evisu came around in the early 1990s that Japanese denim cracked the $100 price tag. Designer Hidlhiko Yamane started out producing just 14 pairs a day off of the vintage looms he bought – and added what is now the iconic hand-painted seagull on the back pocket. The brand ended up becoming a bit of a flashier one, worn by rappers and streetwear fans, but it was responsible for bringing more attention to the broader Japanese Denim Market.

Editor’s pick: Handprinted Seagull Straight Fit Raw Denim Selvedge Jeans

If you’re looking for stylish pair of jeans, then this pick from Evisu definitely has you covered. These straight-fit jeans are made with 14.5oz of raw selvedge denim and a natural indigo dye. You’re getting the classic handprinted seagulls on the back pockets, along with a leather godhead patch. Again, this is raw denim, so you may want to go a size or two up.

Stevenson Overall Co.

Originally an American brand based out of Portland, Indiana, and operational in the 1920s and ‘30s, Stevenson Overall Co. was bought up and relaunched as a Japanese workwear brand in 2005. This re-birth of the brand by Japanese owners is fitting in part because much of the expertise when it comes to making classic workwear has been better preserved in Japan than in the U.S.

Editor’s pick: 714 Valencia Jean

Made with 14oz of Japanese selvedge denim sourced from Zimbabwe cotton and natural indigo dye, this pair of jeans from Stevenson Overall Co. is woven on vintage Toyoda looms in Okayama, Japan. Additionally, the denim is unsanforized so pay special attention to the size chart.

Mister Freedom

When Christophe Loiron, a French expatriate living in Los Angeles, wanted to make top-tier classic American clothing, he turned to Japanese mills to source his fabric. In a lot of ways, Mister Freedom is more of an American brand than a Japanese one – but the fact that they source so much of the fabric (and get much of it made to their specs) is yet another indication of Japanese primacy in the world of denim.

Editor’s pick: California Lot.64 Paniolo Hawaii Denim

Inspired by that ’60s style, these jeans from Mister Freedom are made with an indigo-dyed denim twill blend of 50% cotton and 50% recycled sugarcane fibers, giving them a distinct sweet smell and unique color that will change over time. They have a mid-rise, a straight leg, a slight taper to capture that old-school look, and a selvedge leg outseam.

Iron Heart

Iron Heart doesn’t loom its own denim, but they do source plenty of its fabrics from some of the best Japanese mills out there — among many quality mills in its production arsenal. As a result, their store is full of clothing made from a broad spectrum of products varying from sanfordized to raw denim. This, combined with their helpful sizing sheet and set of definitions, make them a great brand for neophytes and longtime denim-heads alike.

Editor’s pick: 21oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jeans

This pair of jeans right here is the first jean design that Haraki made for the company, so you know you’re getting a certified classic with this pick. It’s made with 21oz of natural weft Japanese selvedge denim, rope-dyed indigo warp, and has been one-washed and sanforized. Due to this washing process, you can expect minimal shrinking and a unique look over time.

Samurai Jeans

Started in 1997, Samurai Jeans grew from a common maker of denim to one that pushed limits and got people to re-think what a vintage company could do. The Osaka-based company has done things like producing a line of jeans themselves – from cotton plant to cutting and sewing it all themselves, and even using special dyes made from pomegranate.

Editor’s pick: H3000GB-2022

Made with 21oz of selvedge denim, these unique jeans have a ton of cool patterns and details, on top of a heavyweight construction. They’re made in Osaka, Japan, and feature an exclusive leather patch, painted stitches, and are one-washed, so minimal shrinking is expected.

45 Rpm

What makes 45 RPM unique is, in large part, its commitment to dyeing garments. They use two methods; Ai-dyeing and Indigo-dyeing. Both of the dyeing processes used by 45RPM are used on Japanese loomed denim, and end up developing a totally distinct look and feel to them thanks to their lower capacity to cling to a garment.

Editor’s pick: Mugi Cotton Denim 908 Painter Pants

Although this is a thinner pair of jeans, you’re still getting quality craftsmanship and denim made with Zimbabwe cotton and a unique indigo dye. Additionally, since these are painter jeans, you’re also getting double-knee reinforcement and tool pockets on both sides of the pants.

Pure Blue Japan

Pure Blue has made a name for itself primarily because of its use of lower-tension shuttle looms used to create a more irregular fabric. This, combined with classic indigo dye, makes it so the type of fade developed on their denim is much more textured and unique than on others.

Editor’s pick: AI-003

These jeans have a regular straight fit and have been built with 17.5oz of natural indigo denim that’s been hand-dyed using extra-thick slub yarn. The base of the indigo is made from leaves that have been growing for years, then soaked and washed multiple times for a deep color.

The Best Selvedge Denim Jeans Right Now

If you want to learn more about selvedge denim (and maybe get some more jeans), then check out our best selvedge denim jeans guide.