Zenith debuted the Defy in 1969 alongside its legendary El Primero movement. Remaining one of Swiss watchmaking’s most architecturally bold designs, the timepiece is still an icon today with its angular octagonal case and seemingly impenetrable construction.
That same year, Swiss furniture maker USM debuted their modular Haller system with architect Fritz Haller, creating candy-colored chrome and steel configurations that would define modern office aesthetics. Now, 56 years later, these two pillars of Swiss design excellence finally collaborate on something that feels overdue: the Defy Chronograph USM.
Modular Minds Think Alike
Considering the brands’ shared heritage and philosophical approach, this collaboration feels like a long time coming, but we’re glad it’s here. USM’s signature ball-joint connectors allow infinite reconfiguration of their furniture, while Zenith’s Defy case has housed everything from simple time-only movements to complex complications.
The real conversation starter, however, is that this marks the first time Zenith has fitted their vaunted El Primero chronograph into the original 1969 Defy case design.
The 37mm stainless steel case keeps every angular detail that made the original so radical, from the distinctive 14-sided bezel to the pump-style chronograph pushers. Additionally, the iconic Gay Frères “ladder” bracelet — originally designed exclusively for Zenith in 1969 — completes the period-correct aesthetic while providing modern wearing comfort. For those keeping track, this isn’t a reissue but rather a “what if” scenario: imagining what would have happened if Zenith had originally combined their two 1969 masterpieces.
Color Us Impressed
The collaboration might be overshadowed by the stunning dial colors, which mirror USM’s signature palette: Gentian Blue, Pure Orange, Golden Yellow, and USM Green. To achieve the hues, Zenith’s dial makers had to create special pigments to perfectly replicate USM’s unique paint formulations. The effect is striking against the applied square hour markers with horizontal grooves that echo the furniture’s linear aesthetics.
The most charming detail appears on the central chronograph seconds hand, which features a miniature USM ball joint at its tip — the same connector that holds together millions of USM configurations worldwide. It’s filled with Super-LumiNova for practical visibility, proving that even whimsical touches serve dual purposes. The overlapping silvered subdials showcase the classic El Primero layout with their azuré finish subtly referencing USM’s hardware details.
Swiss Precision Squared
Inside beats the El Primero 400, descendant of the 1969 caliber that remains one of horology’s most celebrated achievements. The high-frequency movement (36,000 vph) provides exceptional chronographic precision while the sapphire caseback reveals Côtes de Genève finishing and dual logos acknowledging both partners. However, the most impressive aspect might be the included storage. Each watch ships with a genuine USM Haller chest in matching colors, designed to hold up to 12 timepieces.
Spec Sheet
Case Size: 37mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Movement: In-house El Primero 400 automatic chronograph
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, 30-minute/12-hour counters, date
Power Reserve: 50+ hours
Water Resistance: 100m
Bracelet: Stainless steel “ladder” design
Limited Edition?: Yes, 60 pieces per color
Pricing & Availability
Limited to just 60 pieces per colorway, the Zenith Defy Chronograph USM is available now through Zenith’s website for CHF 10,900 (~$11,800).
Recap
Zenith x USM Defy Chronograph
The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM marks the first time Zenith has housed their legendary El Primero chronograph movement in the original 1969 Defy case, collaborating with Swiss furniture maker USM to create four limited editions in signature USM colors that each include a matching modular storage chest.
