There are a ton watch collabs out there that feel like nothing more than marketing marriages of convenience. But Zenith and USM aren’t one of them. USM patented its Haller modular furniture system in 1965, and just four years later Zenith dropped both the original DEFY and the El Primero, the high-frequency chronograph caliber that really put the brand on the map.
The two Swiss icons finally linked up last fall with a 60-per-color capsule collection, and for round two they’ve gone one-of-one with the DEFY Chronograph USM TimeForArt Unique Piece.
Four Colors, One Mirror
Where the 2025 capsule spread USM’s palette across four separate dials, the unique piece goes for something…a bit shinier. The dial is fully mirror-polished, and seeing that it’s dependent on your surroundings, the watch never really looks the same twice.
Against that chrome canvas, the three overlapping azuré counters carry USM Golden Yellow, Pure Orange, Green, and Gentian Blue, marking the first time all four signature shades have shared a single dial. And the best detail might just be the smallest one. The Gentian Blue chronograph seconds hand is tipped with a miniature USM Haller ball joint, the humble connector that the entire furniture system hangs on.
Still a DEFY Where It Counts
Everything else carries over from the original capsule. You get the compact 37mm steel case, the octagonal profile with its 14-sided bezel, and the vintage-correct ladder bracelet.
Inside beats the beloved El Primero 400, which is Zenith’s column-wheel automatic humming along at 36,000 vph paired with a 55-hour reserve and a silicon escapement. The rotor also wears both brands’ logos which are visible through the exhibition caseback.
The Furniture Is Half the Lot
Seeing that USM is a furniture icon, it only makes sense that they would build a one-of-a-kind mirrored Haller credenza specifically for this watch. It features a glass top displaying the first layer of a collection and a lockable drawer hiding the second. The setup is good for holstering up to 24 watches.
Spec Sheet
Model: DEFY Chronograph USM – TimeForArt Unique Piece
Reference: 03.A780.400-T/01.M3642
Case Size: 37mm
Case Material: Stainless steel (octagonal, 14-sided bezel)
Dial: Mirror-polished with USM Golden Yellow, Pure Orange, Green & Gentian Blue accents
Movement: El Primero 400 automatic column-wheel chronograph, 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power Reserve: 55 hours
Water Resistance: 100m
Band: Stainless steel “ladder” bracelet
Limited Edition?: Yes, unique piece (1 of 1)
Accessories: One-of-a-kind mirrored USM Haller sideboard (holds 24 watches)
Pricing & Availability
As a one-off built exclusively for the third edition of TimeForArt, there’s no retail price here. The set crosses the block at Phillips New York on December 5, with 100% of the proceeds, buyer’s premium included, going to the Swiss Institute. For reference, the standard 2025 models retailed at CHF 10,900 (~$11,800), so expect bidding to blow well past that.
Recap
Zenith DEFY Chronograph USM TimeForArt Unique Piece
Zenith and USM follow up their 2025 capsule with a one-of-one mirror-dial DEFY Chronograph, paired with a mirrored Haller sideboard and headed to Phillips New York this December for charity.
