We’ve had a soft spot for Studio Underd0g’s technicolor streak all year, from the rebuilt 02SERIES Gen2 to the glow-stick-bright Mantis. Calendar complications, though, usually show up much later in a watch brand’s life. Typically, once the basics are locked in.
Underd0g, founded in 2020, decided six years was long enough to wait, and spent two of them working with Sea-Gull on a calendar movement of its own. Meet the Studio Underd0g 04SERIES Calendar.
A Date That Knows When to Turn Around
So that layout is definitely more clever than it looks at first glance. The date is a retrograde pointer that arcs across the dial and snaps back to the 1st at month’s end. Basically, it never has to sweep through the moonphase sitting at 6 o’clock.
Around the edge, chamfered cutouts line up with the dates and reveal colored sections of a rotating disc to flag every weekend of the month. The catch here is that disc has no idea what month it is, so you set it yourself with the crown on the 1st.
Date and moon corrections happen through hidden pushers at 2 and 8 o’clock, using a stylus that ships in the box.
Sea-Gull Did the Heavy Lifting
Under the sapphire caseback sits the ST-2115B, an automatic co-developed with Sea-Gull that took two years and 34 brand-new parts to sort out. It’s Underd0g’s first automatic, beating at 4Hz with 42 hours of reserve, and the rotor is signed “Sea-Gull for Studio Underd0g.”
If you caught our hands-on with Sea-Gull’s meteorite rattrapante this summer, you already know the Chinese movement giant can do serious work. Final assembly happens at Underd0g’s own D0ghouse workshop in Maidenhead, England.
Four Skies, Two Sizes
The dials swap the old fruit-bowl naming for weather this time around. Cloud10 is a pale sky blue with pink accents, Arabian Sky goes gold with teal, 0vercast (zero and all) runs slate blue-gray with orange, and Shepherd’s Delight is a bold red with plum touches.
Each comes in a 37mm or 38.5mm steel case with a sensible 44.5mm lug-to-lug and 50 meters of water resistance, on leather from The Strap Tailor. At 13.5mm thick it’s not a slim dress piece by any means, but for three calendar functions on a self-winding movement, it’s money.
Spec Sheet
Case Size: 37mm or 38.5mm
Thickness: 13.5mm
Lug-to-Lug: 44.5mm
Lug Width: 20mm
Case Material: 316L stainless steel
Crystal: Double-domed sapphire, sapphire display caseback
Water Resistance: 50m
Movement: Sea-Gull ST-2115B automatic (4Hz, 42-hour power reserve)
Complications: Retrograde date, weekend indicator, moonphase
Dials: Cloud10, Arabian Sky, Shepherd’s Delight, 0vercast
Band: Quick-release leather strap by The Strap Tailor (20mm tapering to 16mm)
Limited Edition?: No
Pricing & Availability
The Studio Underd0g 04SERIES Calendar goes on sale November 17 for $1,100 in either size, which somehow undercuts the hand-wound 02SERIES Gen2 by $100, and since it’s a regular production piece, there’s no numbered-edition hype to worry about. Head over to Studio Underd0g’s website to register interest before the drop, or book a visit to the D0ghouse in Maidenhead if you happen to be in the neighborhood.
Recap
Studio Underd0g 04SERIES Calendar
Studio Underd0g’s first automatic is a $1,100 Sea-Gull-powered calendar watch whose retrograde date snaps back before it can reach the moonphase.
