The luxury sports watch category is arguably the most competitive segment in horology today, with every major player trying to outdo each other with increasingly complicated offerings. But when the oldest continuously operating watchmaker in the world decides to drop its first-ever minute repeater in their flagship sports collection, we tend to pay extra close attention.
Vacheron Constantin’s new Overseas Grand Complication Openface is a serious statement piece that blends three high complications with surprising wearability and a distinctly contemporary aesthetic. The watch represents a significant milestone for the Overseas collection itself, which has steadily evolved from the integrated bracelet sports watch that debuted in 1996 into something far more ambitious… and expensive.
COMPLICATIONS ON COMPLICATIONS
The star of the show is undoubtedly the minute repeater – a first for the Overseas line – which “chimes” the time on demand when activated by a slider at 8 o’clock. But Vacheron didn’t stop there. The Grand Complication Openface also packs a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon into its titanium housing, effectively combining all three major complications previously available in separate Overseas models. At its heart beats Calibre 2755 QP, a hand-wound movement Vacheron has been refining since it first appeared in the legendary Tour de l’Île watch in 2005. Under the exhibition caseback, there’s a power reserve indicator, which lets you know how much is left in the 58-hour tank.
What really caught our attention here is how much engineering went into making this grand complication work within the Overseas design language. Minute repeaters and water resistance typically don’t mix well due to the sliding mechanism required to activate the chimes. But Vacheron spent a year and a half redesigning the caseback to accommodate the repeater mechanism while maintaining a humble “splash resistance” of 30m.
TITANIUM TREATMENT
The 44.5mm case and integrated bracelet are crafted from grade 5 titanium, which serves multiple purposes beyond just looking cool. For one, titanium’s lower density compared to gold or platinum allows the minute repeater’s chimes to resonate more clearly. Likewise, titanium is notably lighter than the more common steel, keeping the weight manageable here despite the watch’s substantial 13.1mm thickness, which is even more impressive considering the caliber houses a whopping 602 components.
The use of sandblasted and polished titanium gives the watch a more contemporary feel than you might expect from a brand that typically leans heavily into tradition. Meanwhile, the skeletonized sapphire dial reveals the anthracite grey NAC-treated bridges and rhodium-plated wheels, creating the type of contrast that actually lets you decipher what you’re looking at in terms of the mechanical complexities. Other handsome visual touches are the applied 18k white gold hour markers, which appear to float above the movement, and blue metallized rings that frame each of the calendar subdials for improved legibility.
DAILY GRAND COMPLICATION?
Traditionally, complications like minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, and tourbillons are reserved more for dress watches that you would wear on special occasions. But housed in the robust Overseas case made of titanium and with a decidedly sporty styling, this grand complication seems designed for actual everyday wear. It’s also paired with a quick-change titanium bracelet system and even comes with additional blue alligator and rubber straps.
SPEC SHEET
Model: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface
Case Material: Grade 5 titanium
Case Size: 44.5mm
Case Thickness: 13.1mm
Movement: Calibre 2755 QP manual-winding
Movement Components: 602
Power Reserve: 58 hours
Complications: Minute repeater, perpetual calendar, tourbillon, power reserve indicator (on caseback)
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Band: Titanium bracelet, additional blue alligator and rubber straps included
Limited Edition?: Yes, unspecified
PRICING & AVAILABILITY
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface is not officially a limited edition, but “limited production” means you won’t see many in the wild. As for pricing, Vacheron Constantin is keeping that information “available upon request,” which means that if you have to ask, you probably can’t afford it. With three major complications in one of the brand’s most desirable collections, expect a price tag well into six figures.
Recap
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface
Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Grand Complication features the sports watch line’s first-ever minute repeater. But what’s most impressive is how the Swiss brand turns this piece of haute horology into an everyday watch.
