Aren’t big watches supposed to be heavier? Well folks, I’ve learned that it also depends on the materials used, and what’s inside. In the process of making the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch, avant garde watchmaker Ulysse Nardin decided to avoid the easy route of making the latest Diver AIR really, really small. Instead, the timepiece goes 44mm large and still managed to clock in at 52g, including the strap!
It Starts with the Materials
Debuting at Watches & Wonders this week, the Swiss luxury brand reached for optimal materials that help keep the weight down. Looking at the approach of their Diver Net concept watch from 2020, the brand partnered with “market leaders and start-ups” for innovative materials for this watch. The middle case utilizes a 90% recycled titanium material because, after all, this thing needs to survive 200m underwater. Meanwhile, the unidirectional rotating bezel features upcycled carbon fiber from IMOCA sailing boats and the sides of the case and lugs come from Nylo-foil and recycled fishing nets.
Mostly Air
If you look at the Diver AIR, you’ll quickly realize you can see through the dial to the other side. That’s because of the new movement, the in-house UN-374, skeletonized here — a lot. For starters, Ulysse Nardin took their previous Caliber UN-372 movement, seen on their Diver X, and then removed the large plate up top. The result is a watch that’s 80% air.
To further reduce weight, they mostly used titanium for the movement’s construction — a first for the brand. From there, the bridges were made more narrow and their innards were removed for a hollow center. Joined with the silicon escapement, oscillator, and balance spring is a mainspring barrel with a healthy 90 hours of power on tap. All said, the movement weighs just 7g but isn’t brittle by any means. According to the brand, this watch is capable of withstanding 5,000g of impact.
Lastly, the Diver AIR comes with both a white and orange elastic fabric strap with scratch closing. These each weigh under 6g. Without the strap, the watch weighs just 46g.
Spec Sheet
Case Size: 46mm
Case Thickness: 14.76mm
Case Material: Titanium and carbon fiber
Water Resistance: 200m
Movement: In-house Caliber UN-374 automatic
Band: White or orange elastic fabric strap
Limited Edition?: No
Pricing & Availability
Surprisingly, the Diver AIR is not a limited edition. However, it’s priced at $38,000 and is available now.
Recap
Ulysse Nardin Diver AIR
Despite the 46mm case size, Ulysse Nardin breaks the record for the lightest mechanical dive watch with the Diver AIR, a 52-gram model that utilizes titanium and carbon fiber in its skeletonized construction.
