Review: Tudor’s Black Bay Pro Opaline Is an Explorer II Alternative for Half the Price

If you’ve been following Tudor’s trajectory over the past decade, you’ve witnessed one of the most remarkable transformations in modern Swiss watchmaking. What began as Hans Wilsdorf’s “accessible Rolex” in the 1940s has evolved into something far more compelling — an independent manufacture that’s found its own voice while honoring its prestigious lineage.

The story really begins to get interesting in 2012 with the original Black Bay, a watch that signaled Tudor’s intent to step out from under Rolex’s shadow. By 2015, they’d introduced their first in-house movement with the North Flag. But it was the 2018 Black Bay GMT that truly announced Tudor’s arrival as a serious player in the luxury GMT space, offering true GMT functionality at a fraction of what Rolex commanded.

Fast forward to 2022, and Tudor delivered what many considered their most compelling release yet — the Black Bay Pro. Taking the proven Black Bay 58 platform and reimagining it with a fixed 24-hour bezel and Explorer II-inspired aesthetics, the Pro carved out its own niche in the increasingly crowded adventure watch space. It was bold, purposeful, and yes, it was unapologetically thick.

Now, three years later, Tudor has expanded the Pro lineup with something the community has been clamoring for since day one — a white dial variant. But this isn’t just any white dial. Tudor calls it “Opaline,” and that distinction matters more than you might think (more on that later).

The question is: does this “white” dial transformation elevate the Pro into must-have territory, or does it simply highlight the missed opportunities that have surrounded this model since its inception?

The moment you see the Black Bay Pro Opaline in person, one thing becomes crystal clear — this is a fundamentally different watch than its black-dialed sibling. While the original Pro leaned heavily into vintage tool watch aesthetics with its fauxtina-free indices and purposefully rugged appearance, the Opaline variant feels decidedly more modern and refined.

Where the black dial version draws inevitable comparisons to the vintage Rolex Explorer II reference 1655, this Opaline variant finds itself in conversation with neo-vintage polar Explorer II references like the beloved 16570.

But here’s where things get complicated, and where the community’s frustration becomes palpable. Tudor clearly has the technology to make thinner GMT watches. The Black Bay 58 GMT proves it at 12.8mm thick using their newer MT5450-U movement, while the Pelagos FXD GMT shows that even the MT5652 family can be packaged down to 12.7mm when Tudor wants it to be. The decision to maintain the 14.6mm thickness on the Pro feels less like engineering necessity and more like… well, let’s call it strategic positioning.

The watch community has been vocal about this perceived missed opportunity, and frankly, their criticism isn’t entirely unfair. When you can produce a GMT watch at 12.8mm but choose to release one at 14.6mm, questions naturally arise about motivations. Is it inventory management? Product differentiation? Or perhaps something more calculated?

Alright, speaking of that case, let’s address the elephant in the room immediately — the 14.6mm thickness. Yes, it is thick, there’s no doubt about it. But no, it’s not the catastrophic design flaw that internet forums would have you believe. And understanding why requires looking beyond just the numbers.

At 39mm in diameter with a 47mm lug-to-lug measurement, the Black Bay Pro’s proportions actually work quite well on most wrists — seen here on our wearer’s 6.75″ wrist for reference. And look, the 7.52mm-thick MT5652 movement is definitely a major contributor to that 14.6mm overall thickness — there’s no getting around that. But Tudor has also made some deliberate aesthetic choices here that add to the profile: that distinctive domed sapphire crystal and the unapologetically slab-sided case construction that’s become synonymous with the Black Bay line. In some ways, the Black Bay Pro’s thickness comes from Tudor choosing function and character over slim proportions.

At approximately 165g, it’s noticeably heavier than comparable watches, and that weight feels concentrated in the case head rather than distributed across the bracelet (the case head itself weighs about 85g). Which is something worth noting when it comes to the wearing experience here.

The case finishing follows Tudor’s established playbook — brushed surfaces on the case top and crown, polished sides, and a beautifully executed polished bevel that runs from lug to lug. It’s a finishing approach that photographs beautifully but doesn’t hide the watch’s dimensions. Some have noted that the steel appears brighter on this Opaline variant compared to the black dial version, though whether that’s intentional or simply how light interacts with the different dial colors isn’t entirely clear.

Tudor’s execution on the 24-hour bezel is really well done with thin, precisely engraved numerals on a radially brushed surface that pays clear homage to vintage Explorer II bezels while maintaining its own character. The bezel’s finishing quality easily rivals anything Rolex produces, and in some ways, it even feels more refined than the bold, chunky bezels found on modern Explorer II references.

The screw-down crown at 3 o’clock operates with the satisfying precision we’ve come to expect from Tudor. No crown guards here, which maintains that vintage tool watch aesthetic.

The screw-down caseback maintains the watch’s 200m of water resistance while displaying the engraved Tudor shield logo and technical specifications in a classic circular pattern.

Shifting our attention to the dial, here’s where the magic happens. As we previously mentioned, Tudor’s “Opaline” dial isn’t simply white. Underneath the domed sapphire crystal is a subtly textured, slightly metallic surface that shifts between crisp white and silvery tones depending on lighting conditions. This nuanced approach feels intentional, creating visual distinction from Rolex’s stark white polar dials while still maintaining broad appeal.

The hour markers represent the most significant visual departure from the original Pro. Gone are the floating monoblock ceramic lume plots that gave the black dial its distinctive character. In their place, Tudor has implemented more traditional applied markers with black ceramic surrounds. It’s a logical choice for legibility but one that does sacrifice some of the original’s visual appeal.

We’d read concerns online about the thin black outlines around the markers and hands potentially lacking contrast against the light dial. In practice, there are definitely slight legibility challenges in certain lighting conditions. It’s the inevitable trade-off that comes with any white-on-white dial configuration. The longer you stare at the dial, the more you notice how the white markers can blend into the Opaline background. That said, we still appreciate Tudor’s restrained aesthetic approach, and for most daily wear situations, readability remains perfectly functional.

The handset maintains Tudor’s signature snowflake design, now outlined in black to match the markers. It’s executed beautifully, but again, can suffer from those same contrast issues. The yellow GMT hand, while maintaining consistency with the black dial variant, can also disappear at times against the Opaline background. An orange or red GMT hand would have provided far better legibility and perhaps created a more compelling visual hierarchy.

Super-LumiNova application is generous across both the hands and ceramic markers, glowing a vibrant green that contrasts nicely against the opaline dial. The brightness is quite good, though it doesn’t quite reach the performance you’d get from something like a Pelagos. For most users, it’ll be perfectly adequate, but serious outdoor enthusiasts might find it falls short of dive watch standards.

Now onto the movement here. The MT5652 carries over unchanged from the original Pro: Tudor’s proven GMT workhorse with 28 jewels, COSC chronometer certification, true GMT functionality with independently adjustable hour hand, and a solid 70-hour power reserve.

Here’s where it gets frustrating for enthusiasts: we know Tudor can do better. As we discussed, the BB58 GMT hits 12.8mm using their sleeker MT5450-U movement, while the Pelagos FXD GMT proves even the MT5652 family can be packaged down to 12.7mm when they want it to be. The MT5652’s 7.52mm height is a big reason why this Pro clocks in at 14.6mm thick.

That said, the movement performs exactly as you’d expect from Tudor with smooth winding, precise adjustments, and accuracy that consistently runs within COSC specs. The GMT function works flawlessly for travel, letting you jump time zones without missing a beat.

What’s notably absent is Master Chronometer certification. Tudor has clearly mastered METAS standards on other models, so why not here? Adding that certification would have brought the Pro’s tech credentials into 2025, especially given its explorer heritage. It feels like another conservative choice in a watch that could have really pushed boundaries.

The three-link bracelet carries over unchanged from previous Black Bay models, complete with those polarizing faux rivets. Whether you love them or hate them seems to depend entirely on personal aesthetic preferences, but they’re undeniably part of Tudor’s design DNA at this point.

The bracelet construction is excellent — solid links throughout with mixed brushed and polished finishing that complements the case beautifully. The links taper from 20mm at the lugs to 16mm at the clasp, providing balanced proportions that work well with the 39mm case diameter, and is finished off with Tudor’s T-fit micro-adjustment system.

So, the question we always ask, is the Tudor Black Bay Pro “Opaline” worth it? That’s a question that’s been dividing the watch community since its debut at Watches and Wonders 2025.

On pure execution, the Opaline dial is some of Tudor’s finest work in recent memory. The subtle metallic finish creates visual depth that photographs beautifully and wears even better, while the overall package delivers true GMT functionality, excellent build quality, and compelling aesthetics at the $4,500 price point. 

But for many, this watch still feels like it exists in the shadow of what it could have been. We know Tudor can make thinner GMT watches. We know they can achieve Master Chronometer certification. The decision to maintain the 14.6mm thickness and older movement specs feels like a missed opportunity that’s frustrated enthusiasts for three years running.

For those who can embrace the substantial wrist presence and appreciate what Tudor has delivered, the Black Bay Pro Opaline offers an Explorer II alternative that costs half the price while delivering superior water resistance and power reserve. And that’s definitely the camp we’re in here. We appreciate what Tudor has accomplished with the white dial variant, even with the compromises.

Recap

Tudor Black Bay Pro Opaline

Tudor gives a refined Opaline white dial to its Black Bay Pro, a robust GMT with excellent build quality, offering a compelling Explorer II alternative at a strong value. However, its 14.6mm thickness and lack of Master Chronometer certification highlight missed opportunities that may frustrate enthusiasts who know Tudor can achieve slimmer, more technically advanced GMT watches.

Pros

• True GMT functionality
• Robust build quality
• Versatile strap options
• Excellent finishing and detailing
• Generous power reserve
• High value for a luxury GMT watch
• Comfortable on most wrists
• 70 hours of power reserve

Cons

• Significant thickness
• Lack of Master Chronometer certification
• Limited dial contrast in some lighting
• Retained faux rivets on bracelet
• Potential wrist fatigue

Learn More: Tudor