Despite the occasional limited-edition release from heritage brands, pocket watches are pretty much a thing of the past, relegated to collector’s pieces that sit inside of display cases. Nevertheless, that hasn’t stopped Seiko from taking inspiration from its past. Celebrating its 145th anniversary, the Japanese brand has debuted a new Presage wristwatch reference that honors a very important pocket watch from 1895.
A Return to the Timekeeper
When Kintaro Hattori’s Seikosha factory produced the Timekeeper in 1895, it was a massive leap forward for Japanese watchmaking. The watch marked the company’s first in-house timepiece during a period when domestic manufacturing was rare, and Western imports dominated the market. This pocket watch was proof that Japan could compete with Swiss precision. Fast-forward to 1929, and an evolved Seikosha pocket watch earned designation as Japan’s first official railroad watch.
Part of the Presage range, the new SPB538 takes that heritage and translates it into a small 35mm package. The gold-plated stainless steel case features movable lugs — a nod to how early 20th-century wristwatches were essentially pocket watches converted for wrist wear. Beneath the box-shaped sapphire crystal, there’s a white enamel dial, crafted by master artisan Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team through traditional firing techniques. Each dial is unique thanks to the high-temperature manufacturing process, which can create small dimples and surface variations, so no two dials are exactly alike.
Old-World Design Meets Modern Movement
Seiko kept the aesthetic touches faithful to the original. Roman numerals mark the hours in slender black, while gold-colored leaf-shaped hands sweep across the dial. The onion-style crown at 3 o’clock and the intricately detailed bezel both echo the historical Timekeeper’s silhouette. But inside, there’s nothing vintage about the caliber 6R51, a modern automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve and manual winding capability. It’s magnetically resistant and accurate to +25/-15 seconds per day.
Lastly, the pull-through leather strap comes from Leather Working Group-certified tanneries, aligning with Seiko’s aim to source over 90% of its leather from LWG-certified producers.
Spec Sheet
Model: Seiko Presage SPB538
Case Size: 35mm
Case Thickness: 12.3mm
Case Material: Gold-colored stainless steel
Movement: Seiko Caliber 6R51 automatic with manual winding
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Dial: White enamel with black Roman numerals
Crystal: Box-shaped sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Water Resistance: 50m
Strap: Pull-through leather from LWG-certified tanneries
Price: $1,900
Limited Edition: 1,450 pieces
Pricing & Availability
Priced at $1,900, the Presage SPB538 will be available in February at select Seiko boutiques and authorized retailers, limited to 1,450 pieces.
Recap
Seiko Presage SPB538 145th Anniversary
Seiko’s celebrating 145 years by turning their 1895 Timekeeper pocket watch into a wristwatch. The SPB538 packs that vintage enamel dial charm into a compact 35mm gold-plated case with a modern movement.
