Most watches on the market earn their cult following on the wrist, but some, like the Seiko SNZH, earn that same following on the workbench through the mod communities. For years, this affordable diver was the watch enthusiasts bought specifically to take apart, swapping dials, hands, and bezel inserts until Seiko finally pulled the plug in 2018.
Fast forward to today, and the revived version of that legend is getting its two most striking colorways yet with the Seiko 5 Sports HDB004 and HDB005.
The Diver That Launched a Thousand Mods
Introduced in the 2000s, the SNZH sported sword hands and a glossy bezel that looked suspiciously like a certain legendary French dive watch costing 30 times as much. The modding community noticed, and an entire industry of aftermarket parts sprang up around pushing the resemblance even further.
The community even coined its own nickname for the modded creations, dubbing them “Fifty Five Fathoms.”
And Seiko clearly knew how popular this watch had become. Two years ago, the brand resurrected the design under its 5 Sports SKX Series, and now it’s expanding the family.
Formal White or Tweed Green?
The HDB004 “Formal White” pairs a white sunburst dial with a black bezel and yellow gold-tone hands, applied markers, and bezel numerals. It’s the safer pick, but it’s also a really handsome one, too.
But the HDB005 “Tweed Green” is where we’d put our money. The green sunburst dial melts into a matching green bezel, while rose gold-tone accents warm the whole affair up considerably.
Same Bones, Better Brains
Both watches share the familiar 42.5mm stainless steel case with a 4 o’clock crown, measuring 14.2mm thick and a stubby 46mm lug-to-lug that wears smaller than the diameter implies. You also get 100m of water resistance, a unidirectional bezel, and a three-row bracelet.
Inside sits Seiko’s 4R36 automatic with hacking and hand-winding, two features the original SNZH never offered. The crystal is still Hardlex rather than sapphire as well.
Spec Sheet
Model: Seiko 5 Sports SKX Series HDB004 “Formal White” / HDB005 “Tweed Green”
Case Size: 42.5mm
Lug-to-Lug: 46mm
Case Thickness: 14.2mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Curved Hardlex
Movement: Seiko Caliber 4R36 automatic (hacking, hand-winding, day-date)
Power Reserve: Approx. 41 hours
Water Resistance: 100m
Band: Stainless steel three-row bracelet
Weight: 169g
Limited Edition?: No
Pricing & Availability
Both models land in October 2026 as regular production pieces, a refreshing break from Seiko’s recent limited edition spree. UK pricing is set at £340 (~$460), while US pricing hasn’t been announced, though the existing black version retails for $400 stateside, so expect something in that neighborhood. Head over to Seiko’s website to learn more.
Recap
Seiko 5 Sports SKX Series HDB004 & HDB005
Seiko dresses its revived cult-favorite SNZH diver in gilt-accented white and green colorways, keeping the hacking 4R36 automatic and the sub-$500 price intact.
