Review: The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch White Lacquer Might be the Perfect Speedy

Few watches carry the historical weight and cultural significance of the Omega Speedmaster. Since its selection by NASA for the Apollo missions and subsequent lunar landing in 1969, the “Moonwatch” has achieved legendary status in the watch world. For decades, the classic black dial version has remained largely unchanged – a testament to the timelessness of its design.

But even icons need fresh interpretations, and Omega’s latest offering has been generating serious buzz among enthusiasts since its release last year. The Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional with a white lacquered dial represents one of the most significant visual departures for the standard production Speedmaster in years. According to Omega, this white dial draws direct inspiration from the white spacesuits worn by NASA astronauts during their EVA activities, as well as the iconic Alaska Project prototype from 1969 – a watch specifically designed for extreme temperature conditions in space.

What started as a teaser on Daniel Craig’s wrist at an Omega event in late 2023 has become one of the most talked-about watch releases of 2024. While white-dial Speedmasters have appeared before (most notably in limited editions like the Alaska Project prototype and its 2008 reissue, the 1997 “Albino” for the Italian market, and the 2015 Apollo 13 Silver Snoopy Award), this marks the first time a white-dial Speedmaster has entered the standard production lineup.

All of this is to say; it’s a significant enough development to warrant a closer look at the new Speedy – and after spending a few weeks with the watch on our wrists, that’s exactly what we’re doing today.

At A Glance

First Impressions

Pull the white-dial Moonwatch out of its box, and you’re immediately struck by how dramatically different it feels from its black-dial sibling. Same case, same proportions, but an entirely transformed personality. The lacquered white dial creates a striking visual presence that feels simultaneously vintage-inspired and thoroughly modern.

The contrast between the glossy white dial and black PVD-coated hands and markers is dramatic, creating exceptional legibility while adding a level of sophistication not typically associated with tool watches. Those accustomed to the utilitarian, instrument-like character of the classic black Speedmaster might be surprised by how much more refined this version appears.

Two subtle touches of red – the “Speedmaster” text and the chronograph seconds hand tip – add just enough visual punch to keep things interesting. These red accents cleverly reference historical models like the Alaska Project, giving enthusiasts a subtle nod to Speedmaster heritage.

What’s immediately apparent is that this isn’t just a palette swap – it’s a complete reconsideration of the dial construction. The lacquered finish, applied markers, and subtle use of contrasting textures elevate the watch beyond a simple color change. The glossy white surface has a milky quality with remarkable depth – something photos struggle to capture but is immediately obvious in person.

The Case

The case architecture remains untouched from the standard Speedmaster Professional, maintaining the iconic asymmetrical design that’s been a hallmark of the Moonwatch since the late 1960s. At 42mm in diameter, 13.2mm thick, and with a lug-to-lug measurement of 47.5mm, the watch maintains the perfect proportions that have made the Speedmaster such a versatile daily wearer.

The twisted “lyre” style lugs that have defined the Speedmaster’s silhouette for decades are present and accounted for, with alternating brushed tops and polished sides creating that distinctive Speedmaster profile. The case flanks feature polished surfaces that contrast with the predominantly brushed finishing elsewhere, creating visual interest as light plays across the watch.

One notable point is that this white-dial version is only available with a sapphire crystal, unlike the black dial which can be had with either sapphire or the more historically accurate (and slightly less expensive) Hesalite plastic crystal. It’s a decision that makes sense – the more refined character of the white dial pairs naturally with the modern sapphire crystal.

The sapphire crystal is box-shaped, adding a vintage touch while contributing to the overall thickness of the watch. It sits slightly proud of the aluminum bezel, which features the familiar tachymeter scale with the “dot over ninety” detail cherished by Speedmaster enthusiasts.

Water resistance remains at 50 meters – adequate for daily wear but not suitable for serious underwater activities. This is a watch designed for land-based adventures, after all – its water resistance is merely a practical consideration for everyday life.

The Dial

The dial is unquestionably the star of this show, featuring a multi-layered white lacquer finish that creates remarkable visual depth. Unlike ceramic white dials (found on some Seamaster models), this lacquered approach produces a softer, creamier white with a subtle translucency that allows the applied elements to appear as if they’re floating above the surface.

The stepped construction of the dial – reintroduced to the Speedmaster line in 2021 – is particularly striking on this white version. The step creates a natural shadow line that adds dimension, while the transition from the main dial to the chapter ring creates a subtle elevation change that catches light beautifully.

The applied hour markers represent a significant departure from the painted markers on the black dial version. Each index is diamond-polished and treated with black PVD coating, creating a stark contrast against the white background. The markers are filled with a thin strip of Super-LumiNova, though night-time legibility isn’t this watch’s strongest suit – the lume application is relatively minimal compared to the black dial version where entire markers glow.

The three subdials – 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, and running seconds at 9 o’clock – feature concentric circular graining (azurage) that provides a subtle textural contrast to the glossy main dial. This finishing technique breaks up the harsh light reflection and improves legibility while adding visual interest.

The handset maintains the classic Speedmaster design but receives the same black PVD treatment as the hour markers. The chronograph seconds hand features a distinctive red tip that pairs with the red “Speedmaster” text – the only colorful elements on an otherwise monochromatic dial. 

The Movement

Beneath the sapphire caseback beats Omega’s caliber 3861, a significant evolution from the caliber 1861 that powered Speedmasters for decades. First introduced in 2019 in the Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition and standardized across the Moonwatch collection in 2021, this movement represents a substantial upgrade while maintaining essential continuity with earlier Speedmaster movements.

The caliber 3861 incorporates Omega’s Co-Axial escapement – a revolutionary design created by master watchmaker George Daniels in 1974 that reduces friction, improves accuracy, and extends service intervals. It operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) – maintaining the same beat rate as its predecessors while improving overall performance. The movement also features a free-sprung silicon balance spring that provides exceptional resistance to magnetic fields – up to 15,000 gauss, which is far beyond what you’d encounter in daily life.

What truly distinguishes the 3861 is its METAS certification as a Master Chronometer. Unlike COSC testing (which only evaluates uncased movements in laboratory conditions), METAS certification tests the fully assembled watch in real-world scenarios. This means your Speedmaster has passed eight rigorous tests including accuracy during exposure to magnetic fields, water resistance verification, and performance across different positions and temperatures – exactly as you’d wear it in daily life. In practical terms, you can expect accuracy between 0 and +5 seconds per day under normal conditions – impressive performance for a mechanical chronograph..

The 3861 remains hand-wound – a deliberate choice that maintains the tactile connection between wearer and watch that has been part of the Speedmaster experience since the beginning. The winding action is smooth and satisfying, with the movement providing approximately 50 hours of power reserve when fully wound.

Aesthetically, the movement is decorated with arabesque Geneva waves, polished bevels on the bridges, and blackened screws – representing a level of finishing that exceeds what you’d expect at this price point. While it doesn’t reach the elaborate hand-finishing seen in high-end complicated movements, and we thoroughly enjoyed the view of the 3861 through the Speedy’s exhibition caseback.

The Bracelet

The Speedmaster Professional received a significantly improved bracelet with the 2021 redesign, and the white dial version benefits from these enhancements. The bracelet features a five-link design that tapers elegantly from 20mm at the lugs to 15mm at the clasp, providing a balanced look and excellent comfort.

The brushed outer links are complemented by polished center links – a configuration exclusive to the sapphire crystal versions of the Speedmaster.

The clasp has also been upgraded with Omega’s comfort release system, allowing for approximately 2.3mm of tool-free extension with the press of a button – about a quarter of a link’s worth of extra space. While more modest than some competitors’ adjustable clasps (like Tudor’s T-Fit for example), this quick-adjust feature was perfect for accommodating minor wrist expansion throughout the day.

For those who prefer alternatives to the bracelet, Omega offers this watch with either a black perforated leather racing strap with white stitching or a fitted black rubber strap with a lunar surface pattern on the underside. Both options come with a deployant clasp for added security. While the bracelet version costs $8,100, the strap versions come in slightly lower at $7,800.

Conclusion

At $8,100, the white-dial Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional represents just a $100 premium over its black-dial sapphire sandwich counterpart – a surprisingly modest upcharge for what feels like a substantially different watch. While availability was initially tight (with waitlists stretching months at many dealers), the watches are beginning to appear more regularly as Omega ramps up production of this non-limited model.

The white-dial Speedmaster won’t replace the classic black version in most collections – nor should it. The original maintains its unimpeachable connection to space exploration and offers a utilitarian versatility that’s hard to match. But this white interpretation adds something genuinely new to the Speedmaster family: a more refined, dressy alternative that maintains the essential Speedmaster DNA while creating a distinctly different wearing experience.

What Omega has achieved here is remarkable – they’ve managed to significantly reimagine an icon without compromising its identity. The white-dial Speedmaster feels simultaneously familiar and fresh, offering long-time Speedmaster enthusiasts something genuinely new while potentially attracting collectors who might have previously passed on the more tool-like black version.

For existing Speedmaster owners, this white dial variant makes a compelling case as a complementary piece rather than a replacement. For newcomers to the Speedmaster world debating between black and white, the choice comes down to whether you value the historical authenticity and understated versatility of the black dial or the striking visual presence and refined character of the white.

Either way, the introduction of the white-dial Speedmaster Professional to the permanent collection represents an exciting evolution for one of watchmaking’s most beloved icons – proof that even after more than six decades, the Speedmaster still has new facets to explore.

Recap

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional with a white lacquered dial brings a sophisticated twist to the iconic chronograph, offering exceptional contrast, stunning depth, and a hint of dressy flair without compromising the iconic Speedmaster DNA.

Pros

• Stunning lacquered white dial with exceptional depth and finish
• Perfect daily wear proportions despite 42mm diameter
• METAS certified
• Improved bracelet with tool-free micro-adjustment

Cons

• Only available with sapphire crystal (no Hesalite option for purists)
• Limited lume application compared to black dial version
• 50m water resistance is adequate but less than some competitors
• Initial availability issues (though improving)
• White dial will show scratches more readily than black

Learn More: Omega