We’ve all heard of the prowess and legacy of the Swiss watch industry but those in the know may be well aware of the watchmaking ability of Switzerland’s neighbor to the north. With a history that begins in earnest in the mid-19th century, the nation has become known for its minimalist styles and exceptional function, owing to the Bauhaus philosophy. A relatively newer brand compared to its brethren, NOMOS Glashütte can be looked upon as emblematic of the nation’s design ethos, but with modern sensibilities.
Helping usher in this new wave of German watchmakers, NOMOS is on the more accessible side of the luxury spectrum, known for its simple yet handsome dress watches and its sportier watches, such as the ones found in its Club series. Debuting in 2007, the Club has been the brand’s entry-level casual watch, which has seen plenty of variations over the years. We were able to get hands-on with the Club Sport neomatik 39 tabac model, an everyday sports watch with some serious versatility.
Many NOMOS timepieces are quite versatile, but this Club Sport neomatik 39 tabac may be the brand’s most representative of that. It gets there first and foremost with the case dimensions. The 39.5mm diameter is accessible for most wearers and a middle ground for both big and small watch lovers, while the 8mm thickness keeps the weight down. Likewise, the 49.5mm lug-to-lug width offers comfort while still maintaining its wrist presence. Housed in the stainless steel case is the in-house caliber DUW 3001 automatic movement, as exhibited through the caseback. It’s adorned with a matching steel bracelet with quick-change spring bars and a folding clasp.
Quality German Craftsmanship
Versatility At Its Finest
Blending the aesthetics of its sporty intentions with some dress-focused elegance, the Club Sport neomatik 39 tabac is really the best of both worlds, offering serious versatility to your wrist so that you won’t have to compromise when going out, nor will you have to swap timepieces when transitioning to the evening affairs you have lined up. A big part of the watch’s stylistic range is its galvanized tabac brown dial with sunburst polishing. We love how the small seconds subdial — featuring a near-sweeping hand — has a personality all its own, with grooved lines and a recessed placement compared to the main dial. For low light situations, the hands and hour markers are coated in Superluminova, giving them a bright blue glow.
However, it’s the smaller details that really set this watch apart from other pieces in its price range (and even more expensive models). The metal surrounding the exposition caseback features an engraving of a smiling whale, which denotes the timepiece’s water resistance of 200m, which is surprisingly high, and also signifies the subtle playfulness of the watch itself. The rounded bezel shape is another one of our favorite elements, further blurring the line between the two worlds in which this watch can operate.
Precision & Comfort
Like all NOMOS models, the Club Sport neomatik 39 tabac features an in-house movement, which features the NOMOS swing system — a proprietary escapement — and a bidirectional winding rotor. With a power reserve of 43 hours, the DUW 3001 automatic is a really precise movement, while also remaining thin at just 3.2mm. Falling in line with the Bauhaus philosophy or function over form, it can’t be overstated how comfortable this watch is, especially considering it’s nearly 39.5mm in diameter. Of course, the smaller dimensions have some help from the hooded lugs, creating a slight curvature towards the wrist.
The Unequivocal Conclusion
While there are several other Club Sport neomatik models from NOMOS — including ones in different sizes and colors — we really love the tabac variant for its versatile (and unique) colorway, as well as its easy-going dimensions, which contribute to how comfortable it feels when you wear it. If wrist presence is your main concern, the brown color really allows all of its features, both on the dial and the case, to really pop. Not to mention, the alternating finishing on the steel bracelet is an elegant touch to an already elegant timepiece. Priced at $3,700, the Club Sport neomatik 39 tabac is available now from NOMOS.