Eight years into its journey as one of the most visually distinctive independent watch brands, MING has arrived at a crossroads. The Malaysian marque built its reputation on minimalist, space-age aesthetics that could stop conversations mid-sentence. But with the new 57.04 Iris, founder Ming Thein and his team are pivoting toward something bolder, more ornamental, and decidedly Art Deco-inspired.
This is the debut of their fifth-generation design language, packaged in their first-ever left-handed configuration and most accessible chronograph to date.
Departing From MING’s Minimalist Roots
The Iris is arguably MING’s most dramatic stylistic evolution since the brand’s inception. Previous generations emphasized clean lines and understated elegance, but this new direction embraces complex patterns and color effects. This is never more evident than the dramatically stepped lugs that cascade in three distinct layers, each requiring nine separate pieces to achieve the nested effect. The tops are mirror-polished while the sides sport brushed finishes, creating sharp visual contrasts that feel more architectural than horological.
This takes your typical MING flying blade lugs and gives them a more theatrical interpretation that demands attention. The execution is undeniably impressive from a manufacturing standpoint, but it does raise questions about whether MING is abandoning the restraint that originally set them apart in the independent space.
The Star of the Show
The 57.04 earns its name from perhaps the most dynamic dial MING has ever produced. Built on a deeply dished brass base and treated with a multiphasic coating, this surface shifts continuously between purple, blue, turquoise, and green depending on viewing angle.
The dial’s concave profile is etched with 60 radial lines that double as minute markers, solving one of MING’s traditional legibility challenges. The floating indices, laser-cut into the sapphire crystal and filled with MING’s proprietary Polar White lume, maintain the brand’s signature aesthetic while the diamond-cut blue hands provide clear contrast against the shifting background.
Where things get more complex is the chronograph subdial at 6 o’clock. This black disc uses sandwich construction with cutout markings and a rotating inner disc for the minute hand, all backed by Super-LumiNova.
No Crown Left Unturned
The Iris marks MING’s first left-handed watch, with the crown and integrated chronograph pusher positioned at 9 o’clock. The destro layout allows for a substantially larger, more tactile crown and pusher without interfering with wrist comfort.
The 40mm stainless steel case breaks MING’s traditional 39mm ceiling, but the proportions work. At 11.85mm thick with a 47.8mm lug-to-lug measurement, it should maintain a reasonable wrist presence.
The Iris comes with both MING’s stainless steel Universal Bracelet for swapping between different watches and an anthracite goat leather strap.
Accessible Luxury With Swiss Partnership
Inside ticks the Sellita for MING SW562.M1, a hand-wound movement developed specifically for this watch. Reconfigured for the destro layout, it offers central chronograph seconds, a 30-minute counter, and 60-hour power reserve. Visible through the exhibition caseback, the finishing includes a 4N gold-coated three-quarter plate that creates attractive contrast against the anthracite base movement.
This partnership with Sellita allows MING to offer their first sub-$10,000 chronograph, a significant accessibility milestone for a brand whose previous chronos commanded five-figure prices.
Spec Sheet
Model: MING 57.04 Iris
Case Size: 40mm
Case Thickness: 11.85mm
Case Material: 316L stainless steel
Movement: Sellita for MING SW562.M1 manual-wind monopusher chronograph
Dial: Multiphasic coating on brass base with color-shifting effect
Water Resistance: 100m
Lume: MING Polar White (indices), Super-LumiNova X1 (hands/subdial)
Straps: Stainless steel Universal Bracelet and anthracite goat leather strap
Limited Edition: 100 pieces
Pricing & Availability
Limited to just 100 pieces, the MING 57.04 Iris is priced at CHF 6,250 (~$7,755). Orders open August 26 at 1 PM GMT through MING’s website, with delivery taking about 5 to 6 weeks.
Recap
MING 57.04 Iris
MING’s 57.04 Iris debuts the brand’s fifth-generation Art Deco-inspired design language with dramatically stepped lugs and a mesmerizing color-shifting dial in their first left-handed chronograph.
