How do you follow up two decades of creating some of the most outlandish, conversation-starting timepieces the watch world has ever seen? If you’re Max Büsser and his Friends, you apparently dig through your drawer of dormant sketches, pull out something that looks deceptively conventional, and then proceed to MB&F-ify it in the most elegantly restrained way possible. The result is the new Special Project One (SP One) – a 38mm round watch that somehow manages to be both the most “normal” and yet still utterly distinctive timepiece in the brand’s 20-year history.
A New Chapter: The Special Projects Collection
For the past 18 years, MB&F has operated with a clear bifurcation in its lineup – the sci-fi inspired Horological Machines (HM) that look like they might transform into tiny robots, and the steampunk-infused Legacy Machines (LM) that reimagine what watchmaking might have looked like in the 19th century if Jules Verne had been a watchmaker. Now, as the brand celebrates its 20th anniversary, it’s introducing an entirely new collection (dubbed Special Projects), which essentially becomes the repository for all those wild ideas that didn’t quite fit either existing category.
The SP One began as a simple sketch from 2018 codenamed “Three Circles” – a design centered around the trinity of a barrel, balance wheel, and off-centered dial. It was a sketch that lingered in development limbo for years until MB&F decided to embrace the idea of creating something unexpectedly elegant and refined. And perhaps the most shocking thing about the SP One is just how wonderfully it works.
A Study in Balanced Minimalism
At first glance, you might wonder if someone swapped the MB&F logo onto another brand’s dress watch. The 38mm pebble-like case is beautifully proportioned with a smooth, flowing design devoid of sharp angles or aggressive elements. Available in either 18k rose gold or 950 platinum, the case measures just 12mm thick, which is actually on the the thinner side by MB&F’s standards.
Of course, there’s still plenty of traditional MB&F design language still in tact. The crown is positioned at an unconventional 10 o’clock. The lugs appear to float slightly, with a subtle gap between them and the main case body. There’s a bezel-free construction that allows the domed sapphire crystal to seamlessly blend into the case, creating an expansive view of what lies beneath.
The Architecture of Three Circles
The heart of the SP One is its Y-shaped in-house movement, arranged around three perfectly matched circular elements – the mainspring barrel, the balance wheel, and the time display. Each of these circles has identical circumference, creating a harmonious visual balance while appearing to float within the case.
The time display at 6 o’clock is subtly tilted toward the wearer, which is a signature MB&F touch that required the use of conical gearing to drive the hands. The small dial itself features a DLC-coated base with a circular brushed finish, applied faceted hour markers, and a pair of delicately skeletonized hands. Those hands feature a unique tremblage texture on top that creates a beautiful contrast with their polished sides.
Surrounding the entire movement is what MB&F calls an “amphitheater,” which is essentially a beveled flange with a spiral brushed surface adding both depth and dimensionality. In the platinum version, this flange is rendered in sky blue, while the rose gold model features a warm anthracite tone. This colored ring creates a beautiful frame for the mechanical ballet within, drawing your eye toward the three orbiting elements.
Classical Finishing with Contemporary Architecture
Flip the SP One over, and you’ll discover a movement that’s both contemporary in architecture yet classical in execution. Hand-beveled anglage adorns all the wheels, while prominent gold chatons secure the jewels. The oversized balance wheel beats at a leisurely 2.5Hz (18,000 vph), and the single barrel provides a substantial 72-hour power reserve.
Where most watchmakers would proudly display every gear, bridge, and screw, MB&F has taken the opposite approach, creating negative space that makes the three key components appear to float even more dramatically.
This philosophy extends to the caseback view, where the movement appears suspended within the case, with substantial negative space around it. This creates an almost ethereal effect when wearing the watch, as though the mechanical elements are hovering just above your wrist.
Spec Sheet
Case Size: 38mm diameter
Case Thickness: 12mm
Lug-to-Lug: 41.9mm
Case Material: 950 platinum or 18k rose gold
Crystal: Domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: In-house SP One caliber
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 2.5Hz (18,000 vph)
Jewels: 31
Strap: Calfskin with matching precious metal pin buckle
Limited Edition: No (limited only by production capacity)
Pricing & Availability
The MB&F Special Project One is available in rose gold (priced at approximately $76,000 USD) and platinum (priced at approximately $82,000 USD), exclusive of taxes. It’s not officially limited in production, though MB&F’s manufacturing capacity will naturally restrict the number produced. The watch is available immediately through official MB&F retailers.
Recap
MB&F Special Project One (SP One)
MB&F’s 20th anniversary inspired creation defies expectations with a 38mm round case housing a Y-shaped movement featuring three perfectly matched circular elements – barrel, balance wheel, and tilted time display.
