Louis Vuitton might be known for their luxury bags and luggage. But its prowess as a watchmaker is perhaps its most impressive achievement in our book. While 2002’s Tambour was the model that informed us that the French couture house was here to stay, its lineage actually dates back quite a few years earlier with the Monterey in 1988. This week, LV is bringing back the Monterey for a modern era and honestly, it hasn’t missed a step at all.
Cult Status Origins
The original Monterey watches — dubbed LV I and LV II — were the work of Italian architect Gae Aulenti, who you might know better for transforming Paris’s Gare d’Orsay into the Musée d’Orsay. Her first watch design was wonderfully eccentric: a lug-less “pebble” case with the crown positioned at 12 o’clock, powered by quartz movements manufactured by IWC. Not only that but the dials were rather busy, featuring a GMT hand with a 24-hour worldtimer, a retrograde date, and a moonphase complication.
The name itself came from American collectors who couldn’t quite nail the French pronunciation of “montre” (watch). These weren’t commercial hits at the time, but scarcity and their avant-garde styling turned them into collector favorites over the years.
Modern Revival, Classic DNA
The 2025 Monterey stays faithful to Aulenti’s original vision while showcasing what La Fabrique du Temps can pull off today. That signature pebble-shaped case returns in mirror-polished 18k yellow gold at 39mm across, keeping the crown at 12 o’clock complete with Clous de Paris decoration.
The real star here is the dial, made from white Grand Feu enamel that requires over 20 hours of work and multiple firings at temperatures reaching 900°C. Red and blue scales are pad-printed onto the enamel surface — a graphic nod to the 1988 models — while lacquered white gold hands and a blued steel seconds hand complete the vintage-inspired layout.
Goodbye Quartz
Inside, the in-house LFT MA01.02 automatic caliber replaces the quartz of old, offering 45 hours of power reserve with a rose gold micro-rotor. This is another sign of how far LV has come as a serious watchmaker. Affixed to the case is a black calf leather strap that uses a quick-release system with an 18k yellow gold pin buckle in tow.
Spec Sheet
Model: Louis Vuitton Monterey
Case Size: 39mm
Case Thickness: 12.2mm (without crystal)
Case Material: 18k yellow gold
Dial: White Grand Feu enamel with red and blue scales
Movement: In-house LFT MA01.02 automatic
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Water Resistance: 50m
Strap: Black calf leather with quick-release system
Limited Edition: 188 pieces
Price: $59,000
Pricing & Availability
Priced at $59,000, Monterey is available now through Louis Vuitton boutiques and select stores worldwide, with production capped at 188 pieces, paying homage to the year of the original’s debut.
Recap
Louis Vuitton Monterey 2025
Louis Vuitton is reviving the Monterey, its quirky first wristwatch from 1988 designed by architect Gae Aulenti, with a limited run of 188 pieces featuring an 18k yellow gold case and a stunning white Grand Feu enamel dial. The $59,000 watch stays true to the original’s eccentric pebble-shaped design while packing in modern upgrades like an in-house automatic movement.
