Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Collectibles Capsule V Brings Eight ’30s-Era Reverso Watches Back to Market

Collecting vintage watches can be a lot of fun, but it can also come with quite a bit of headache. Counterfeits and misinformation can be avoided with certain certified resellers, but there’s always room for error. Jaeger-LeCoultre has sought to rectify this a bit with its own series, The Collectibles, where rare and historically significant models have been refurbished and sold to those with pockets deep enough.

For the fifth in the series, JLC has unearthed eight classic Reverso references from the 1930s, because as great as modern-day Reversos are, they’re nothing like the originals.

Birth of an Icon

When César de Trey challenged watchmakers to solve British polo players’ crystal-breaking problem in 1931, the result was something far more enduring than a sports accessory. French engineer René-Alfred Chauvot’s sliding, rotating case design became the Reverso — Latin for “I turn around” — and it married Art Deco geometry with practical durability in ways that still resonate today.

These eight pieces from Capsule V span 1931 to 1937, capturing the model’s formative years when it evolved from a steel sports tool into a canvas for precious metals and complications. What’s remarkable is how JLC sourced them, spending two years hunting down museum-grade examples that required minimal restoration. The work was handled by ten master watchmakers in JLC’s dedicated restoration workshop — one of the few maintained by a manufacture — who service movements, hand-rebuild components, and source historical parts from exceptional heritage stocks while preserving original character and patina. No heavy polishing or dial refinishing was required — just careful authentication and mechanical overhaul in the same Le Sentier workshop where they were originally made.

Standout Pieces

The 1931 Reverso with the black dial might be the headliner here. Described at the time as “the dial of the future” when silver dials were the norm, this first-year example shows how the railroad minute track and trapezoidal indices inspired today’s Reverso Tribute aesthetic. Then there’s the chrome bracelet model from the same era, a rarity not just for surviving with its original bracelet but for how well chrome resisted tarnish compared to standard steel.

By 1933, JLC started installing its own Calibre 410 in place of the Tavannes movements that powered early models. The two-tone steel and 9K yellow gold (350/1000) reference from 1936 demonstrates this shift. Calibre 410 was the first in-house movement developed specifically for the Reverso, pioneering a small-seconds display at six o’clock. The two-tone construction combined gold with harder metals, creating a watch more robust than full gold while still being extremely elegant.

Fast-forward to 1937, and you’ll find the post-merger transitional model (black dial with small seconds) bearing the full Jaeger-LeCoultre signature for the first time. Powered by Calibre 413, it’s the youngest in the drop but captures a pivotal moment when two companies officially became one.

Ladies’ Models too

The Dame references deserve attention too. The 18K (750/1000) bimetal piece features a white gold cradle with yellow gold lugs and case — a sophisticated construction that shows how JLC was already experimenting with mixed metals in 1931. The steel model with its rare Cordonnet chrome rope bracelet is particularly unusual; this slender strap attached via distinctive lugs would typically be rendered in calfskin, making the chrome version a standout. The Dame with Double Signature adds heat-blued hands alongside retailer Golay Fils & Stahl’s name on the dial, showing that only select prestigious outlets carried these watches initially.

Each watch comes with an extract from JLC’s archives, a complimentary copy of The Collectibles book, and a new handmade leather strap (except for metal bracelet models). When available, original boxes and papers are included too.

Spec Sheet

Pricing & Availability

Ranging in price from $23,600 to $53,000, the eight-piece capsule is on display at JLC’s Madison Avenue boutique (701 Madison Avenue) in New York from February 5-23. Purchases are available at the boutique during the exhibition period and on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s website starting February 5. Given the two-year sourcing effort and the completeness of these examples — particularly that chrome bracelet model — expect them to move quickly.