Seiko-owned Credor, the brand that translates to “crest of gold” and represents the absolute pinnacle of Japanese watchmaking, has unveiled the Goldfeather Tourbillon Limited Edition GBCF999. This is the first time a Goldfeather model has ever housed the complication, marking a significant evolution for a collection that dates back to 1960 and was reborn in 2023 as the epitome of elegant dress watchmaking.
When Tradition Meets Innovation
As you can tell instantly, the dial work on this watch is extraordinary, featuring a jet-black urushi lacquer base that serves as the canvas for master artisan Isshu Tamura’s intricate bird motif. Using three traditional techniques — raden (mother-of-pearl inlay), kirikane (gold plate application), and maki-e (gold powder sprinkling) — Tamura has created a flock of birds that appear to soar from the tourbillon aperture at 9 o’clock toward the Credor logo at 12.
With an obsessively meticulous execution, each piece of mother-of-pearl varies in thickness and color, requiring Tamura to carefully layer and shave down surfaces to achieve his desired look, creating a dial that shifts and changes as light hits it, much like actual bird feathers catching sunlight during flight.
Movement Mastery
Beneath the artistic dial sits the new Caliber 6850, an evolution of Credor’s 2016-introduced Caliber 6830. While keeping the same compact 25.6mm diameter and ultra-thin 3.98mm profile, the updated movement now boasts 60 hours of power reserve thanks to an enlarged mainspring barrel. Master watchmaker Katsuo Saito, who received Japan’s Medal with Yellow Ribbon in 2023, hand-assembles each movement with precision to within one-hundredth of a millimeter.
If the front weren’t enough, flip over the watch and you’ll see something just as stunning with hand-engraved feather patterns that radiate outward from the tourbillon, creating depth within just 0.15mm of surface material. A greenish-blue feather made from yakougai (green turban snail shell) wraps around the movement, executed in the same raden and maki-e techniques found on the dial.
Case Design Philosophy
On the minimalist 38.6mm platinum case, Credor eliminated all screws, instead forming the mid-case, lugs, and non-crystal caseback sections as a single piece. Despite housing a tourbillon movement, the watch maintains a surprisingly slim 8.6mm profile. The platinum 950 material is notoriously difficult to polish, requiring skilled artisans to hand-finish every surface for a mirror-like effect here.
Lastly, the watch is given a black crocodile leather strap with a matching platinum three-fold clasp on the end.
The Tourbillon Bridge Details
Perhaps the most poetic touch is the tourbillon bridge itself, shaped like a bird in flight with outstretched wings. Gold flecks surround the aperture to create a sun-like effect, with the constantly rotating tourbillon representing radiant solar energy. You could make a case that this is the most elegant tourbillon on the market, or you can just appreciate the watch in all its beauty.
Spec Sheet
Model: Goldfeather Tourbillon GBCF999
Case Material: Platinum 950
Case Size: 38.6mm
Case Thickness: 8.6mm
Movement: In-house Caliber 6850 manual-wind tourbillon
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Water Resistance: 30m
Crystal: Dual-curved sapphire with AR coating
Strap: Black crocodile leather with platinum three-fold clasp
Limited Edition?: Yes, 10
Pricing & Availability
Only ten examples of the Goldfeather Tourbillon will be made, with availability starting in October for €190,000 (~$223,165) from Credor’s boutiques.
Recap
Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Limited Edition GBCF999
Credor put a tourbillon function on its beautiful Goldfeather model and added some avian inspiration that looks like birds are flying across the urushi dial.
