We’re at a point in history where the vast majority of people alive don’t have any reference point for the pocket watch. An evolution of the pendant necklace watch, the pocket watch was born in the 17th century as a more fashionable accessory than its predecessor. These became even more ubiquitous in the late 1800s when the introduction of interchangeable parts made them more affordable for everyone.
Of course, pocket watches eventually gave way to the wristwatch, which combined both practicality and style, but that hasn’t stopped modern-day watchmakers from making the occasional pocket watch from time to time. This week, two brands we love have teamed up for a limited-edition model inspired by the past while also looking forward.
A British Horological Power Move
The Alliance 02 is the first collaboration between Christopher Ward and Studio Underd0g, and rather than playing it safe with a standard wristwatch, they’ve gone full wildcard with a contemporary pocket watch. Both brands have been instrumental in the resurgence of British watchmaking over the past few years, so seeing them join forces feels somewhat inevitable. The pocket watch format, however, is the curveball nobody saw coming.
Studio Underd0g, founded in 2020 by Richard Benc during U.K. lockdowns, has built its reputation on injecting color and creativity into an industry often too serious for its own good. Meanwhile, Christopher Ward has spent over two decades perfecting in-house movements and proprietary case designs that are some of the best accessible luxury pieces around. Combining these two approaches results in something that shouldn’t work on paper but absolutely does in execution.
The 44mm stainless steel case draws from Christopher Ward’s signature Light-catcher design philosophy, which takes inspiration from the flowing lines of an Aston Martin DB9. The crown sits at 12 o’clock, flanked by a single-piece lug that’s secured with cleverly hidden screws. The polished and brushed surfaces throughout give it a tactile quality that’s made for sitting in your hand.
Just Glow with It
Where Studio Underd0g’s influence really shows up is on the dial. Drawing from the brand’s 02Series field watches, the multi-layered construction starts with a brass base coated in seven layers of custom Super-LumiNova, creating a gradient that shifts from pale yellow to peachy orange. Above that sits a 1.4mm sapphire disc printed with Roman numerals, a railroad minute track, and a power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock. During the day, everything appears to float above the luminous base. At night, the entire dial lights up like no pocket watch before it.
Christopher Ward’s in-house CW-001 caliber (formerly the SH21) powers the whole operation. The hand-wound movement features twin mainspring barrels that deliver a five-day power reserve, visible through the exhibition caseback. It’s COSC-chronometer accurate, running between -4 to +6 seconds per day.
Assembly takes place in Great Britain at Horologium in Maidenhead, just five minutes from Christopher Ward’s headquarters. The watch comes with a braided leather strap that modernizes the traditional pocket watch chain, plus a bamboo desk stand that lets it moonlight as a desk clock.
All profits go directly to the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, the trade body founded in 2020 by Roger Smith, Mike France, and Alistair Audsley. The organization has grown from a few hundred members to nearly 2,000, supporting everything from apprenticeships to global promotion of British horology.
Spec Sheet
Model: The Alliance 02
Case Material: Brushed and polished stainless steel
Case Size: 44mm
Case Thickness: 13.25mm
Movement: In-house hand-wound Calibre CW-001 (COSC-grade chronometer)
Power Reserve: 120 hours (5 days)
Dial: Multi-layered brass base with 7 layers of Super-LumiNova, 1.4mm sapphire top disc
Water Resistance: 50m
Strap: Braided leather
Limited Edition: 100 pieces
Price: $4,150
Pricing & Availability
The Alliance 02 is limited to 100 pieces and exclusively available to members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers. Membership is required, followed by pre-registration at britishwatchmakers.com. The watch goes on sale December 11th at 3pm GMT for $4,150. Each piece comes with the leather strap and bamboo desk stand in eco-friendly packaging.
Recap
Christopher Ward x Studio Underd0g Alliance 02 Pocket Watch
Christopher Ward and Studio Underd0g just dropped a surprise collaboration — a modern pocket watch that combines CW’s in-house movement with Studio Underd0g’s fully luminous multi-layer dial, limited to 100 pieces for members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers.
