This year is Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary, and luckily they didn’t wait until Watches & Wonders to give us some cool releases, such as the Caliber 7138 Perpetual Calendar from earlier this year, which debuted a brand-new crown system. However, the new drop at this week’s trade show in Geneva is pretty fantastic too, even if it’s not as mechanically innovative.
It’s not news that the legendary Swiss brand loves using ceramic with its flagship Royal Oak models, especially blue ceramic. And for those of you tired of the same blue hue that we usually see with Royal Oaks, prepare yourself for a stunning new, darker hue, available in three different references.
What’s in a Hue?
Not really related specifically to the brand’s Jubilee anniversary this year yet the Royal Oak trio feels like an event due to the notable dark blue ceramic color.
Dubbed “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50,” the darker shade takes its inspiration from the night sky in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. The Jura Mountain valley has actually inspired AP in the past, particularly when designer Gérald Genta first came up with the unique dial of the first Royal Oak back in the ‘70s. Originally, the hue was made by adding pigment no.50 to a Zapon varnish, after which a splash of black was added to create a cloud effect. Over time, this process gave way to a more consistent and efficient PVD process. However, after years of R&D, AP has now found a way to use that Bleu Nuit to color the ceramic cases.
The Watches
Diving into the watches themselves, let’s first take a look at the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, the smaller of the three watches and the only skeleton dial version. Sporting the same 41mm case as the previous versions (both in black), as well as the impressive 9.7mm thickness, the timepiece is powered by the in-house Caliber 3132, an age-old (9 years now) automatic movement used by AP.
With 45 hours of power on tap, the caliber features a pair of balance wheels (hence the name) for superb accuracy and durability. It’s visible here through the main dial with rhodium finishing and pink gold for good measure. Paired with the watch is a dark blue integrated ceramic bracelet to match.
A Couple of Offshore Models
The first of two Royal Oak Offshore models is a Selfwinding Chronograph with a 42mm case. Seeing that this is the Offshore version, you’ll get a more robust 15.3mm case thickness. The dark blue color extends to the chronograph pushers and crown, inside of which is a titanium chip.
Unlike the Openworked watch above, the two Offshore models feature a welcomed monochromatic look that’s incredibly eye-catching on the wrist. The hands and markers here are white gold, pairing well with the classic steel screws on the octagonal bezel. And again, you have a matching integrated dark blue ceramic bracelet.
Much like the Openworked, AP decided to use pink gold on the movement here again. With a whopping 70 hours of reserve, the in-house Caliber 4404 is an automatic flyback chronograph that can be viewed through the caseback. It powers the left-side tricompax setup on the front.
For the second dark blue chronograph model, we have the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph, a slightly larger 43mm watch with 14.4mm of thickness. However, AP provides a nice alternative here for those not wanting an aggressive dark blue ceramic watch on their wrist. This time, the new color is saved for the bezel, dial, bracelet, and virtually everything else, except for the case itself, which is made of stainless steel.
The dial here is very similar in aesthetic, including the white gold hands and hour markers, except it features a regular tricompax configuration, powered by the in-house Caliber 4401 automatic flyback chronograph movement that’s very similar to the one in the 42mm watch.
Lastly, the band this time around isn’t a ceramic bracelet but a calfskin leather strap, still in a matching blue hue.
Spec Sheet
Case Size: 41mm (Royal Oak Openworked); 42mm and 43mm (Royal Oak Offshore Chronographs)
Case Thickness: 9.7 (Royal Oak Openworked); 15.3mm and 14.4mm (Royal Oak Offshore Chronographs)
Case Material: Dark blue ceramic or stainless steel with dark blue ceramic bezel
Water Resistance: 50m (Royal Oak Openworked); 100m (Royal Oak Offshore Chronographs)
Movement: In-house Caliber 3132 automatic (Royal Oak Openworked); In-house Caliber 4404 or 4401 automatic flyback chronograph (Royal Oak Offshore Chronographs)
Band: Integrated dark blue ceramic bracelet (Royal Oak Openworked and Royal Oak Offshore 42mm) or dark blue calfskin leather strap (Royal Oak Offshore 43mm)
Limited Edition?: No
Pricing & Availability
Available via Audemars Piguet’s boutique with appointment, the new Royal Oak “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” models range in price from $42,900 for the 43mm chronograph all the way up to $101,100 for the Openworked model.
Recap
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” Collection
Inspired by the night sky above Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux, Audemars Piguet has decided to give a new dark blue ceramic case to a trio of its Royal Oak models.
