Years from now, we’re going to look back on the internet-breaking Omega x Swatch collab as a pivotal moment in the industry. And while not every partnership will be as dichotomous as “luxury-meets-budget,” credence should be given to the idea of forging two seemingly opposite brands together in the name of creativity. TAG Heuer has done such a thing with its collaboration with streetwear boutique Kith in order to revive and reimagine the luxury watchmaker’s low-end line of Formula 1 watches from the ‘80s.
TAG Heuer and the World of Cars
TAG Heuer (née Heuer) has been nothing if not driven by automotive enthusiasm since the 1960s. The German watchmaker’s former president, Jack Heuer, helped retool the brand around the racing industry, inspired to create its iconic Carrera chronograph in 1963 after being so taken away by the Carrera Panamericana competition in Mexico. And then in 1969, he aimed to reinvent the racing chronograph once again by perfecting the balance between form and function with his square-shaped Monaco. Oh yeah, and it housed the industry’s first-ever automatic chronograph movement.
In Come the Formula 1 Watches
The 1980s were not a good time to be a mechanical watch company. The quartz crisis helped bankrupt many brands and led to the buyout of others. Heuer was no exception, getting purchased by Techniques d’Avant-Garde (which is why it’s now TAG Heuer). Right around that time in 1986, the company made one final push, finding a compromise between its car-themed automatics and the quartz timepieces that were dominating the industry. The watch was called the Formula 1 and it was colorful (with several different variants), smaller at 35mm, quartz-powered, and made of fiberglass instead of stainless steel. They were a hit and sustained popularity for years to come.
A Link to the Past
Though it’s been a while since we’ve seen new Formula 1 models from TAG Heuer, it’s almost surprising the revival didn’t happen sooner. For this latest release, the company, along with Kith, brought out the original molds from 1986, which explains the 35mm case diameter. However, as opposed to the fiberglass cases, these new editions are given either a tough Arnite plastic, black PVD, or stainless steel. Ten variants have been made in total, each with a unique colorway that represents a different Kith boutique across the globe. Also like the originals, these timepieces beat with a quartz movement and feature a simple three-hand functionality.
Along with the case materials, the watches have gotten some minor updates including the pinstripe dial design, more sturdy rubber or stainless steel strap options instead of plastic, and the crystal upgrade from acrylic to sapphire. And then there’s the price. Where the ’80s and ’90s Formula 1 pieces retailed for anywhere between $130 and $390 –– around the price of a G-SHOCK today –– this Kith revival sticks at a much less affordable $1,500.
Why Kith and Why This Watch?
Any TAG fanboy will be shocked to see the almost sacrilege text on the watch face. Rather than the typical “TAG Heuer” logo at the top of the dial, it clearly and boldly states, “Kith Heuer” –– a cobranding that you just don’t see with well-respected luxury watch brands. We might see this in the busy world of sneaker collabs but to equally share real estate with another non-watch brand on the dial is staggering, to say the least, and a first co-branding of this type from TAG Heuer. If that’s not enough, the bottom of the dial reads Kith’s “Just Us” slogan, and the caseback is checkered with the Kith logo along with “Kith and Kin” across the top.
But this Formula 1 revival is not your run-of-the-mill collaboration. Kith’s founder Ronnie Feig spearheaded this project because of his own personal connection to the original Heuer timepieces. He attributes his own Formula 1 –– a gift from his mother –– as precipitating his passion for wristwatches: “The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Series 1 in red and black was my very first watch, the timepiece that helped me express the unique style that’s now manifested itself in Kith.” Feig has been a powerhouse designer in the sneaker and streetwear scene for years. Anyone who’s meant this much to the style industry must owe a debt of gratitude to the products that first inspired him.
Spec Sheet
Case Size: 35mm
Case Material: Arnite plastic, stainless steel, or black PVD
Movement: Quartz
Band: Rubber or stainless steel
Edition Size: 250 (Arnite plastic), 350 (stainless steel), 825 (black PVD)
Pricing & Availability
Limited to 250 pieces each, the five plastic versions are for Kith Tokyo, Kith New York, Kith Miami, Kith Toronto, and Kith Hawaii, while the stainless steel Kith Los Angeles and Kith Paris editions are limited to 350 pieces each. The black PVD watches, exclusive to TAG Heuer boutiques, are limited to 825. Regardless, pricing remains at $1,500 per watch. However, there are 75 box sets available for $18,000, featuring all 10 watch models. The two PVD pieces will get an early release at TAG’s Miami boutique on May 3 but then you can head over to your respective Kith or TAG Heuer boutiques on May 6 to get your own.
Recap
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith Collection
TAG Heuer brings back its entry-level Formula 1 watches with the help of streetwear boutique Kith. Made from either plastic, PVD, or steel, these watches come in 10 unique colorful variants.
