Review: Is The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium The Best GMT Watch For The Money?

In the pantheon of Swiss watchmaking, Longines stands as a fascinating paradox – and in our opinion, one of the more underrated watch brands on the market. 

Founded in 1832 in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, the brand has continuously balanced heritage with innovation, all while maintaining that elusive sweet spot of quality and value. While perhaps not commanding the immediate name recognition of Rolex or Omega, Longines has carved out a distinctive niche through their impressive technical achievements and a history deeply intertwined with aviation.

The Spirit collection, launched in 2020, has quickly become the standard-bearer for the brand’s modern identity. It’s a brilliant fusion of Longines’ pioneering aviation spirit with contemporary watchmaking techniques—a collection that feels simultaneously vintage-inspired and yet, thoroughly modern. Within this collection, the Spirit Zulu Time GMT has clearly emerged as a fan favorite.

For 2024, Longines has upped the ante with the Spirit Zulu Time Titanium—a 39mm true GMT watch crafted from premium grade 5 titanium. It’s the natural evolution of a model that’s been turning heads since its original 42mm debut in 2022, followed by the more wearable 39mm steel version in 2023.

The “Zulu Time” naming isn’t just marketing fluff, either. It’s a nod to aviation history, where the letter “Z” (Zulu in the phonetic alphabet) represents UTC/GMT time. For pilots crossing multiple time zones, having Greenwich Mean Time as a reference point was crucial—making this a watch that honors its aviation heritage in both form and function.

So after spending some time with the watch these past few months – and just covering its direct competitor; the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT – we thought it was the perfect time to share our thoughts on the Longines Spirit Zulu Titanium.

At A Glance

First Impressions

Pick up the Spirit Zulu Time Titanium for the first time, and you’ll immediately notice what’s missing—weight. Tipping the scales at just 95 grams when sized, it creates that “wait, am I actually wearing this?” sensation that titanium enthusiasts chase. The difference compared to steel is striking, especially when compared to the steel version of the 39mm Zulu Time – which weighs closer to 140 grams.

The visual impact is equally impressive – albeit a bit on the busier side for our personal taste. The anthracite dial paired with gilt accents creates a sophisticated warmth that evokes the iconic “John Player Special” livery made famous by Lotus Formula 1 cars—black with gold accents that are hard not to love for fellow automotive enthusiasts.

Where many GMT watches today feel like variations on either the Rolex GMT-Master or Glycine Airman themes, the Spirit Zulu Time forges its own path. It’s not trying to be a dive watch with GMT functionality tacked on (looking at you, countless “Pepsi bezel” homages), but rather embraces its aviation roots while incorporating genuinely thoughtful modern touches.

Take the bezel for example – a genuinely clever execution of the day & night division without resorting to the now-ubiquitous blue & red or black & blue color schemes. Instead, Longines uses a contrast of finishes: the upper “daytime” half features a glossy ceramic finish, while the lower “nighttime” portion employs a micro-blasted matte finish. Sure, It’s subtle, but it’s functional, and frankly refreshing in a category that often lacks imagination.

The Case

While pilot watches tend to run a bit larger, the Zulu Time’s 39mm diameter, 46.8mm lug-to-lug, and 13.5mm thick are much better suited for everyday wear. And, while that 13.5mm thickness might seem substantial on paper, the watch wears considerably slimmer, with much of that height coming from the curved sapphire crystal. Check it out here in our wearer’s 6.75” wrist for reference.

The star of the show for this release, and what truly elevates this model, is Longines’ choice of grade 5 titanium—a premium alloy containing 90% titanium, 6% aluminum, and 4% vanadium. While Grade 2 titanium is certainly high quality, Grade 5 does have some tangible benefits worth mentioning: better scratch resistance, improved strength, and a color that’s closer to stainless steel, avoiding that dull gray look of lesser titanium alloys.

The finishing is where Longines really flexes its muscles. Titanium is notoriously difficult to finish well, yet the brand has managed to create crisp transitions between the brushed top surfaces and the polished bevels running along the case flanks. This mixed finishing technique adds visual depth and demonstrates serious watchmaking chops—the kind of detail often reserved for watches costing twice as much.

A properly proportioned screw-down pilot’s crown provides confidence-inspiring feedback during operation and contributes to the watch’s 100 meters of water resistance. The screw-down caseback further enhances water resistance while featuring tasteful engravings rather than an exhibition window – a decision that helps honor its tool-watch nature.

The bidirectional 24-hour bezel operates with 48 clicks, and while it operated smoothly and we had no issues, the click stops weren’t quite as distinct as the Tudor BB58 GMT. More of a note than a critique.

The Dial

While we’re certainly fans of the watch overall, the dial is where our major critique for the watch comes to the forefront. Unfortunately, there’s just a bit too much going on for our personal taste – the Longines wordmark, matching logo AND Automatic text at the 12 o’clock, and the equally busy Zulu Time, gold stars and Chronometer text sitting above the 6 o’clock date window – it just feels like, well, a lot .

But, that’s not to say it’s all bad here – as we do appreciate many of Longine’s design choices on the dial.

For starters, the anthracite dial serves as the perfect canvas for the applied Arabic numerals with their gilt surrounds – providing depth and character, especially when caught in shifting light.

Applied gilt numerals and a slim sword handset are generously filled with Swiss Super-LumiNova, along with the pip at twelve and the arrow-tipped GMT hand. The lume application isn’t just plentiful – it’s thoughtfully executed, with even coverage that provides excellent night legibility.

Let’s address the elephant in the room—those five applied gold stars at 6 o’clock. This Spirit collection signature element draws from Longines’ heritage, where stars traditionally signified chronometer-grade movements. They’re undeniably polarizing; some enthusiasts find them charming, while others consider them unnecessary decoration. Personally, we tend to align with the latter thought and would welcome a cleaner dial aesthetic here.

The handset consists of elegant sword-style hands with gilt finishing, complemented by a GMT hand with a red arrow tip. The GMT hand’s predominantly black body allows the red arrow to appear almost as if floating above the dial – a thoughtful touch that enhances legibility without creating more visual clutter.

The frameless date window at 6 o’clock features a color-matched date wheel with gilt numbering to round out the dial design.

The Movement

Powering the Spirit Zulu Time is Longines’ exclusive caliber L844.4, based on an ETA movement but significantly modified for the brand’s use.

The L844.4 delivers true “flyer” GMT functionality, allowing independent adjustment of the local hour hand – when crossing time zones, you simply pull the crown to the first position and adjust the hour hand forward or backward without stopping the watch or disturbing the home time displayed on the 24-hour hand. The date also adjusts accordingly when crossing midnight in either direction.

The movement is COSC-certified, ensuring accuracy between -4 and +6 seconds per day, and features a silicon balance spring for improved magnetic resistance. The 72-hour power reserve means you can take it off for a weekend and find it still running when Monday rolls around.

The Bracelet

The titanium bracelet continues the case’s mixed finishing, with brushed center links flanked by outer links with polished edges. It tapers from 21mm at the lugs to 16mm at the clasp, creating a balanced visual flow that prevents the bracelet from appearing too chunky on the wrist.

That 21mm lug width is admittedly a bit unusual—an odd choice that limits aftermarket strap options—but Longines partially mitigates this with a quick-release system allowing tool-free removal of the bracelet. The clasp features a dual-pushbutton release and five positions of micro-adjustment, though it lacks the on-the-fly adjustment systems becoming increasingly common in this price category – and a feature we’ve really learned to love with offerings like Tudor’s T-Fit system.

The Verdict

So, at $4,275, is the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium worth it? 

At this price point, it positions itself in an increasingly competitive segment of the market. Yes, it commands a premium over the steel version at $3,150, but that additional investment brings genuine benefits in the form of premium grade 5 titanium construction.

And, when considered against its most direct competition, like the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT at just under $4,800, the Longines presents a compelling value proposition. While the Tudor offers greater water resistance at 200 meters and METAS certification, the Longines counters with premium titanium construction, a ceramic bezel, and equally capable GMT functionality—all while saving you about $500..

For the enthusiast seeking a sophisticated do-everything GMT that balances heritage appeal with modern materials, the Spirit Zulu Time Titanium delivers in spades.

Yes, those five stars will continue to divide opinion, and the 21mm lug width is a bit of a head-scratcher, but these are minor considerations against the watch’s substantial strengths. In a market increasingly saturated with derivative GMT designs, the Spirit Zulu Time Titanium establishes its own identity through thoughtful design and excellent execution.

What Longines has created here isn’t just another GMT watch – it’s a genuinely impressive statement piece that reminds us why the brand deserves more attention from serious watch enthusiasts. In blending aviation heritage with modern technology and materials, the Spirit Zulu Time Titanium demonstrates that sometimes the most compelling watches come from brands willing to follow their own flight path rather than simply flying in formation with industry trends.

Recap

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titainum

Featuring grade 5 titanium construction, true GMT functionality, a 39mm case, and a distinctive anthracite and gilt aesthetic, the Spirit Zulu Time proves that Longines isn’t just preserving its storied aviation legacy – it’s creating one of the most technically accomplished and versatile GMT watches available under $5,000.

Pros

• Grade 5 titanium construction offers superior durability and exceptional lightness at 95 grams
• True “flyer” GMT functionality with local jumping hour hand
• 72-hour power reserve and COSC certification
• Ceramic/titanium bezel with unique matte/polished finish provides a distinctive day/night indicator
• Excellent value proposition compared to similarly equipped Swiss GMT watches

Cons

• Unusual 21mm lug width limits aftermarket strap options
• The five stars on the dial may be divisive for some enthusiasts
• Lacks on-the-fly micro-adjustment in the clasp, unlike some competitors

Learn More: Longines