Unless you’re talking about the 200m dive watches made in the ’70s as a less-capable take on its iconic SUB 300 lineup, DOXA’s SUB 200, in its current form, really only dates a few years back. Designed as an entry-level, accessible timepiece without the bulky, tool-ish case of the SUB 300, the SUB 200 is a modern attempt to eschew from the brand’s signature aesthetic, to a time before the 300 was released in 1967 and changed dive watches forever.
Now, the SUB 200 has a follow-up, featuring an upsized case (yes, really) and a new colorway to choose from.
A Brief History Lesson
Despite a history dating back to 1889, DOXA’s legacy in serious diving starts with the SUB 300, developed alongside Jacques-Yves Cousteau and released in 1967. It came complete (and still does) with a decompression-scale bezel and the brand’s signature loud dial palette. The original SUB 200 name dates back to the early ’70s, used mainly as a depth-rating designation on chronograph variants, before the modern iteration arrived at Baselworld 2019. That watch had a rounder case, conventional bezel, domed sapphire crystal, and ETA/Sellita movement. The SUB 200 II is more of a line expansion, so it won’t replace the original. However, it will appeal to many wanting something a bit larger on their wrist.
Bigger, Not Bulkier
The headline spec is a 44mm case, up from 42mm on the original. That’s a deliberate swim against the current. The rest of the watch world has spent the better part of five years shrinking cases back to ’60s dimensions, so DOXA’s decision to go the other direction is rather contrarian. The counterpoint, however, is that the case is actually slimmer, coming in at 12.8mm versus the prior model’s 13.8mm, and a compact 48mm lug-to-lug keeps things from getting too oversized. For a tool watch built around legibility underwater, a wider dial is more about function than wrist presence (although that’s a byproduct as well).
The rest of the case architecture carries over, including the elliptical lyre-shaped lugs, a domed box-sapphire crystal, screw-down crown and caseback, and a unidirectional aluminum bezel insert. And of course, water resistance stays at 200m. The movement is now explicitly confirmed as a Sellita SW200-1, rather than the vague ETA-adjacent language that surrounded earlier releases.
Dialing It In
This is where the SUB 200 II genuinely distinguishes itself. For the first time across DOXA’s permanent collection, every dial option gets a fumé finish, a gradient treatment that deepens toward the outer edge and picks up a subtle moiré texture in different lighting. Black (Sharkhunter), gray (Sharkhunter Vintage), blue (Carribean), and green (Sea Emerald) are all present, and in sunburst form they look considerably richer than the flat dials they replace. Old Radium Super-LumiNova fills the hands and applied markers, keeping the vintage register intact.
Then there’s the Redcoral, a newcomer to the DOXA family. As opposed to the standard steel of the others, this one features a black DLC case, bezel, crown, and mesh bracelet, set against a deep burgundy sunburst dial with white lume. It actually draws from the extremely limited SUB 300 Beta Ceramic Dubai Watch Week 2025 release (only 11 pieces) colorway but on a production scale. It’s also the only variant offered with three strap configurations: black DLC mesh, black rubber, or burgundy rubber. The other four get color-matches rubber or steel mesh options.
Spec Sheet
Model: DOXA SUB 200 II
Case Material: 316L Stainless Steel (Black DLC on Redcoral)
Case Size: 44mm
Lug-to-Lug: 48mm
Case Thickness: 12.80mm
Movement: Sellita SW200-1 automatic
Power Reserve: 38 hours
Water Resistance: 200m
Crystal: Domed box-sapphire, anti-reflective
Lume: Old Radium Super-LumiNova (White on Redcoral)
Strap/Bracelet: Stainless steel Milanese mesh or color-matched FKM rubber Dive Flex strap
Dial Options: Sharkhunter (black), Sharkhunter Vintage (gradient gray), Caribbean (blue), Sea Emerald (green), Redcoral (burgundy red)
Limited Edition: No
Pricing & Availability
The DOXA SUB 200 II is available for preorder now, with orders shipping in May. Pricing starts at $1,690 on rubber and $1,750 on the steel mesh bracelet, while the Redcoral in black DLC runs $1,790 on rubber and $1,890 on the DLC mesh.
Recap
DOXA SUB 200 II
DOXA’s latest entry-level diver goes bigger in a world trending smaller, bumping the SUB 200 up to 44mm while slimming the profile and rolling out the brand’s first fumé dials across the entire lineup. The standout is the Redcoral, a blacked-out DLC variant with a deep burgundy dial that makes a previously near-impossible colorway finally attainable.
